tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62616760340841317072024-03-13T21:54:05.796-04:00Thread-Headed SnippetWhereby I attempt to sew and discuss History using occasional vulgarities and the obligatory cat [>'.'<]Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.comBlogger86125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-76712819928647554312016-08-29T02:46:00.001-04:002016-08-29T02:50:55.436-04:00Don't Be Me. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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WARNING TO MY INCREDIBLY DISCERNING READERSHIP: This post has nothing to do with historical sewing, and everything to do with things that aren't historical sewing.<br />
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<a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6b/Dyeing_British_Library_Royal_MS_15.E.iii,_f._269_1482.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Image result for 18th century dye pot" border="0" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6b/Dyeing_British_Library_Royal_MS_15.E.iii,_f._269_1482.jpg" /></a></div>
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'Tis the season of Cosplay, and I'm up to the body part of your choice in the final stages of making two costumes. I'm in the home stretch (oh, please sewing gods, let it be so), but things got off to a rocky start. In the interest of whining about That Which Can Not Be Changed, and motivated slightly by the genuine urge to help others avoid the same mistake, I'd like to make a Costuming Public Service Announcement:<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>DO NOT </b>and I repeat in all caps for fans of repetitive prose<b> DO NOT purchase fabric that is not what you need with the intention of somehow magicking it into what you do need.</b></span><br />
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Go ahead. Laugh. I'll wait here.<br />
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Isn't this just the most sage, incredibly insightful advice ever? I know, it's common sense. Or rather, it <i>should be</i> common sense, but if life has taught me anything (spoiler: it hasn't), it's that sense is far from common. In this case, the lesson was annoying more than painful, but on the off-chance that there is another soul out there who is as trusting and naive as I am, I hope that my cautionary tale saves them the same frustration.<br />
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Yes, I price-shopped, and realized that I could save LITERALLY TENS OF CENTS by buying two textiles in wildly inappropriate colors, and dying it to match the material I actually wanted. Tens! And I've dyed fabric before (from a light color to a slightly darker color), plus, I dye my hair all the time! What's the big deal?? So, with a generous amount of smugness over my "thrifty" intentions, I purchased the fabric. Everything was dyed with the dregs of dye packets and bottles that I already owned. So thrifty! So frugal! It didn't quite go as expected, so then, I purchased some dye. Still thrifty! And some of it was on sale, so totally still a bit frugal!<br />
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Then, I purchased some MORE dye.<br />
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Then, I purchased some <i>different</i> dye.<br />
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Then, one night, I found myself sweating over my long-suffering washing machine, waiting for the optimal moment to dump my very last bottle of red dye into the drum so that it could mingle Santeria-style with some mumbled prayers and a cupful of the wrong kind of vinegar. It was well after midnight, but since the lower southeastern US is currently under a broad-spectrum weather curse (your choice: deadly floods, or triple-digit heat), my porch was only slightly cooler than the surface of the sun. In went the dye, in went the thrice-dyed "100% cotton" gauze, and for the fourth time in as many weeks, I found myself sitting on top of a running washer, contemplating my life choices.<br />
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Verdict: Not good, Threadlette. Not good at all.<br />
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In an effort to save myself the expense of paying an extra $1.60/yard for 3 yards of actually RED fabric, I spent $12 on dye. End result? Instead of red gauze, I have really really almost kind-of maybe mauve gauze that cost me the equivalent of an extra $4 per yard. Four dollars. And let's not factor in the bloody hours that I've spent on this little science project from creative hell, because that may actually sting a little.<br />
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Yes, I am somewhat pacified by the realization that it is a lot of fun to say "mauve gauze". But only somewhat.<br />
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I've learned my lesson. From now on, I'll only be dying large batches of fabric if the alternative is entirely cost-prohibitive, and/or the colors required aren't the two worst possible colors to try and dye fabric (red and black), and/or I don't have a vested interest in whatever unholy abomination emerges from my washing machine. Or maybe I'll forget all about this little lesson in three weeks. You just never really know.<br />
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Onward and upward!Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-21330223856683393862015-12-31T04:30:00.000-05:002015-12-31T04:30:00.140-05:00What year is it??<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Let it be said: I'm nothing if not prompt.<br />
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So here's a complete wall of nothingness to close out this trip around the sun, aka "That Year That I Never Blogged About Anything Except A Fluff Piece Just To Have Something Listed For 2015."<br />
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This is a noble craft, truly.<br />
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First off, hello! If you're reading this, GOOD NEWS! <i>The ration has ended</i>. I've greatly missed sharing my thoughts here, and I appreciate that there are still people who check in once in a while to see if anything new is up. Since I've been extremely neglectful, it will take some time to sort out my thoughts (and the fantastic back-log of projects that never made it to the Big Time here at the House of Thread). Hopefully, I can use some compositional duct tape and desperation to cobble together a couple of earth-shatteringly amazing posts within the next week. Regularly scheduled blogging (ha) will commence at the previous rate of once every week or so, except on alternate Mondays that coincide with solar eclipses.<br />
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In the meanwhile, thank you so much to everyone who has contacted me privately and on the blog in the last year and a half. (Good grief, yes, it has been THAT long.) Whenever I formally pull my head from my neither regions and get back to this blog, it will be because of you.<br />
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Have a safe and Happy New Year, whatever you're up to! Please enjoy this traditional Holiday picture of a barefoot Shirley Temple clutching the hands of an inexplicably enormous clock whilst an elderly man pulls a long, knotted rope from his right nostril :<br />
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<a href="https://muscleheaded.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/shirlettemple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://muscleheaded.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/shirlettemple.jpg" width="507" /></a></div>
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<br />Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-64002640401794146962014-03-03T04:04:00.000-05:002014-03-03T04:04:10.557-05:00Pull up a busk and stay, why don't you?<br />
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Fresh from the killing fields of "research," our heroine appears! Resplendent in some bodacious polished cotton fabric that was probably rejected from the set of "Golden Girls", she demonstrates her abundant charms to the masses.</div>
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<i><b>Bask</b></i> in the glories of imperious glances and awkward selfies!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF6WAzoOUpBpk4vp4gO2BwxJzGBW50AgYMxX01w1vfTkFw8RxrudmmPMhg8TPsbH4PuJ-FwPMT3PhRfHzE1b3YPP18inCVlN6pA2XP-rEKkWVSwEnwUkUlQeedA4xAhPZO72dKUY3iACSQ/s1600/006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF6WAzoOUpBpk4vp4gO2BwxJzGBW50AgYMxX01w1vfTkFw8RxrudmmPMhg8TPsbH4PuJ-FwPMT3PhRfHzE1b3YPP18inCVlN6pA2XP-rEKkWVSwEnwUkUlQeedA4xAhPZO72dKUY3iACSQ/s320/006.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Come, my children, into the liiiiiiiiiight....</span></div>
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<i><b>Dazzle</b></i> your senses with an alluring up-cup shot of wrinkled fabric and load-bearing 1980's Waverly calico!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6rStyc362YIkyURI5xCIkcKdzLQmcqtnZX6ejZ6-feq1ztaNiZZXFHULL5MrF3C6Qjs238c5WmGNhBZYO36sfhfHV_AY1cmQiymKpeSiDi1_wA9Ig_3n96hE6jkLXAyNZG7AxEsijckp/s1600/008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY6rStyc362YIkyURI5xCIkcKdzLQmcqtnZX6ejZ6-feq1ztaNiZZXFHULL5MrF3C6Qjs238c5WmGNhBZYO36sfhfHV_AY1cmQiymKpeSiDi1_wA9Ig_3n96hE6jkLXAyNZG7AxEsijckp/s320/008.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Why, hello.</span></div>
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<i><b>Relish</b></i> the bewildering confusion of yet another shot of No Bosoms, featuring an enticing peak at the hoarder-style pile of mess accumulating in the corner!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_a5jS8sdzT99n0u9YXJ28d894lcjzmw1BgSfXYegThURWLRunc27TTHh8hQDU84m38clh_R_ogbWGWpKqnawDNzu9ft-5JnZjdc-5PlUMatopHOczn1nfNYJmVvd7Mf2gKvHs1WxloQN5/s1600/010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_a5jS8sdzT99n0u9YXJ28d894lcjzmw1BgSfXYegThURWLRunc27TTHh8hQDU84m38clh_R_ogbWGWpKqnawDNzu9ft-5JnZjdc-5PlUMatopHOczn1nfNYJmVvd7Mf2gKvHs1WxloQN5/s320/010.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Most of that is my Goodwill pile, I swear.</span></div>
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There are a few important points I'd like to make:</div>
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1., These pictures are a bit on the "gently aged" side. Honestly, I think they are over a year old. That's significant because...</div>
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2., I'm a whole lot better at drawing my eyebrows on now! And...</div>
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3., I've since added bust gussets to liven things up in the Balcony seating, if you catch my drift.</div>
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I have no need for 1820-1840 stays, but I wish I were the kind of person who needed them, so I'm making them. It's the Kevin Costner in "Field of Dreams" approach to sewing. <i>"If you elaborately plan, and then poorly execute it, logic will give way to miracles and invitations will coommmme..." </i>Since there isn't precisely a pressing need for this type of garment, I decided to go for broke and make them as versatile as possible. Ideally, they will at least cover me from late Regency- late Romantic.</div>
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This was the intended target:</div>
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<a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/2000.479_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Corset" border="0" height="640" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/2000.479_F.jpg" width="407" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/81981?rpp=60&pg=2&ao=on&ft=corset&pos=113">Via the Met,</a> home of the Super-Famous Lusciously Embroidered Stays</span></div>
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The mock-up stays that I'm wearing are overall pretty solid in the fit department. The wrinkles at the waist are 99% the result of the incredibly graceful angle from which the picture was taken, and the length and bust height are both good. My original intention was to follow the "pattern" of the inspiration stays as much as possible. But... (there are always buts, even when you think you're just dealing with busts) the original cup design just wasn't working for me. Frankly, it was kind of amazing. I have the same voluptuous curves of a yard stick. What were the chances that I'd stumble upon a bust-cup design that wouldn't leave me enough room?? </div>
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But, there it is. I agonized over it for a while, and finally decided to deviate. After all, my natural waist is *ha ha haaa ha<i> sob</i>* nowhere NEAR the position of the band on the inspiration stays. Then, I found this lovely pair...</div>
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<img alt="Stays" height="400" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/31.812_CP2.jpg" width="374" /></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">I feel as if we've <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/173438?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=stays&what=Cotton&pos=1">Met</a> before...</span></div>
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...and I'm pretty sure that they are better suited to MY lovely pair. (har har) Though my need of a bust-gusset does not extend to the range of twosies, this pair of stays was clearly made for someone with my gawky, high-waisted mutant proportions. The plan is now to marry elements of the two stay models, which will probably result in something like this:</div>
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<img src="http://www.factzoo.com/sites/all/img/mammals/platypus-diving.jpg" /></div>
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The duck-billed platypus of the Historical Costuming community, if you will.</div>
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**I have no idea what heinousness has been perpetrated on Blogger over my absence, but suddenly, it's practically impossible to get pictures centered (see most of above), and I have no control over that huge gap at the top. Weird. </div>
Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-47069743340166806632014-02-15T00:57:00.002-05:002014-02-15T00:57:55.284-05:00Feel the Love. Do you feel it? How about now.<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://www.vintag.es/2014/02/vintage-hollywood-actress-valentines.html">Clara, you're drunk. Go home.</a></div>
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It's the National Valentine's Day after-party! Feel free to stock up on those unwanted heart-shaped chocolates and non-matching bra and panty sets at Target! While you're at it, remember to fight the siren-song of the hair dye aisle. <i>She be a harsh mistress, the hair dye aisle. Yaarrrrgh.</i></div>
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As a chronic procrastinator, it's always tough wading back into a project. Keeping up with this blog is a powerful test of my primitive time-management skills, and one that I will undoubtedly fail again someday. Being a card-carrying, socially awkward internet exhibitionist, it's even more tough to share details about Real Life with an unknown audience. Therefor, my first order of business is to say "Thank You," to everyone who reached out to me after the last post. Your kind words really softened the stress and sadness, and I have felt more like myself in the past few days.<br />
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Thank you all, from the bottom of my sardonic little heart. I am profoundly grateful.<br />
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Sewing News and Other Things That Relate To Having A Self-Described Historic Costuming Blog will come along soon, but in the meanwhile, enjoy this demonstration of my moral footprint on the world. I recently started paying attention to the "Keyword Search" tracker for my blog.<br />
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<div class="GFUQPS5BKN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44.54545211791992px;">
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</div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span></td><td style="border: 0px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span><br />
<div class="GFUQPS5BKN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="9" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFUQPS5BF0" style="background-color: #f3f7fb; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFUQPS5BE- GFUQPS5BG0 GFUQPS5BH-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-1058" style="border: 0px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFUQPS5BAO" style="border: 0px; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">wtf sewing crafts</span></div>
<div class="GFUQPS5BAO" style="border: 0px; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFUQPS5BE- GFUQPS5BG0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-1059" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Needless to say, I am profoundly disturbed. Why did "clear vinyl underwear?" only bring in my third highest group of readers? We need to work on this people. Reach for the stars, I always say. Also, thank you unknown Google searchers, for thinking of me as you look for "wtf sewing crafts." I sincerely hope that you found what you came for. And in what sordid universe does "nice huge #&@%" bring anyone here? *<br />
<br />
I blame the Bulgarians. (Hi, Bulgaria!!) Apparently, Bulgarians<i> love</i> me. I like to think that I reach an international audience, but the sad reality is probably that I have alienated most of the native English-speaking world.<br />
<br />
And here we have another week's fine crop:<br />
<br />
<br />
<table __gwtcellbasedwidgetimpldispatchingblur="true" __gwtcellbasedwidgetimpldispatchingfocus="true" cellspacing="0" class="GFJVYHBBO0" style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr __gwt_row="0" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH-" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBJ-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" tabindex="0">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
how short can an 18th century petticoat be</div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBD0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-255" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44.79999923706055px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44.79999923706055px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44.79999923706055px;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="1" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH0" style="background-color: #f3f7fb; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBJ-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
thread headed snippet</div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBD0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-255" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44.79999923706055px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44.79999923706055px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44.79999923706055px;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="2" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH-" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBJ-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
18th century stays</div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBD0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-255" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="3" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH0 GFJVYHBBO-" style="background-color: #eeeeee; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBJ- GFJVYHBBP-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
allegorical paintings 17th century</div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBP-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBD0 GFJVYHBBP-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-255" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="4" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH-" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBJ-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
dummy boards</div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBD0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-255" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="5" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH0" style="background-color: #f3f7fb; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBJ-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
elizabeth keckley quilt</div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBD0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-255" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="6" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH-" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBJ-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
fitting a regency bodice</div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBD0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-255" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="7" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH0" style="background-color: #f3f7fb; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBJ-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
flannel wedgie</div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI0 GFJVYHBBD0" style="border: 2px solid rgb(243, 247, 251); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-255" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table style="border-spacing: 0px; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><tbody style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<tr style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 44px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td><td style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" width="50px"><div class="GFJVYHBBMN" style="background-color: #5b8fc3; border: 0px; display: inline-block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; height: 10px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 0px;">
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr __gwt_row="8" __gwt_subrow="0" class="GFJVYHBBH-" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI- GFJVYHBBJ-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-253" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<div class="GFJVYHBBCO" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; overflow: hidden; padding: 0px; text-overflow: ellipsis; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: nowrap; width: 220px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
</div>
</div>
</td><td class="GFJVYHBBG- GFJVYHBBI-" style="border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; overflow: hidden; padding: 2px 15px; vertical-align: baseline;"><div __gwt_cell="cell-gwt-uid-254" style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; outline-style: none; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<i>"Flannel wedgie."</i> My good work here is done.<br />
<br />
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*<span style="font-size: x-small;">After quite a lot of deliberation, I decided not to include the exact word used. Mainly because it's blatantly false advertising. I mean, they haven't even SEEN my #&@%. </span><br />
<br /></div>
Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-17723933842805266562014-02-09T19:41:00.001-05:002014-02-09T19:41:09.291-05:00A Panoply of Monthly Regrets Featuring Beatrice the Advice Chicken<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
So...<br />
<br />
Yeah.<br />
<br />
<strike>Six</strike> Seven months without a post!<br />
<br />
Depending on your individual thoughts on the matter, this was either a really awesome break from what had become an endurance test of the highest order, or my absence was an emotional and spiritual trial which awakened thoughts of loneliness and despair otherwise known only to death row inmates and readers of Janet Evanovich's last three books. (Seriously, Janet... just stop.)<br />
<br />
As usual, readership increased during my time away from the blog. I hope that my renewed presence does not turn away any of these fledgling followers. This blog, much like your parent's closet, is best explored when nobody's at home. But fear not! I will almost assuredly disappear for another 3, 6, or 22 months at some point in the future, and the timid may resume readership then.<br />
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It has been my experience that, when a blog writer disappears for a long stretch of time, the return is seasoned with Epic Life News and Developments. Just to be as clear and boring as possible, I have not:<br />
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Become married.<br />
Become separated.<br />
Become with Child.<br />
Become the owner of a new and spectacular home.<br />
Developed a legitimate sense of humor. (sorry, kids.)<br />
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However, I haven't been completely lazy!!*<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">* This is mostly a lie.</span><br />
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For those intrepid masochists who have made it this far, enjoy a brisk biannual re-cap of the past seven months! At least, what I can remember of it. To fill in the gaps in the saga, today's post will be liberally peppered with commentary from Beatrice, the Disapproving Advice Chicken.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0dJSbBQp9RKZRcxD7rkj3iuvndYnjW6jmVkUtKD3AI6otlGXOe7OotPXTLfp7XHWHiG01BRR8UugCljfnl7j67V7B_v7P3lG8r7XWZ00subBOd07NTDSc7qer4V50UPFn1JR0vS3-kat/s1600/IMG_5484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0dJSbBQp9RKZRcxD7rkj3iuvndYnjW6jmVkUtKD3AI6otlGXOe7OotPXTLfp7XHWHiG01BRR8UugCljfnl7j67V7B_v7P3lG8r7XWZ00subBOd07NTDSc7qer4V50UPFn1JR0vS3-kat/s1600/IMG_5484.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>"This post is much too long and picture heavy. You're going to alienate everyone except the shut-ins."</i></div>
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Yes, Beatrice. You're right. But I really don't want to create separate posts.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">July </span>boasted a trip out to the annual Revolutionary War reenactment at a local historic site, which in turn required me to stay up all night sewing things that I ended up not wearing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIRlRpOqLRv2vq92iE0JwNdZ2zA6piv_hIudcqUz-tnrGrGSPh4aaiuQi1XWSgJdaVrIi3tFqE0gS0JXAA7_RvRQ3cJNavppvbP21O2sB0bd5ylid7Ybd7PynMTDkrzL9PRnxyNPQanCi/s1600/IMG_5704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIRlRpOqLRv2vq92iE0JwNdZ2zA6piv_hIudcqUz-tnrGrGSPh4aaiuQi1XWSgJdaVrIi3tFqE0gS0JXAA7_RvRQ3cJNavppvbP21O2sB0bd5ylid7Ybd7PynMTDkrzL9PRnxyNPQanCi/s1600/IMG_5704.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">I regret that I have but one bitch-face to give for my country.</span></i></div>
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School started back in <span style="font-size: large;">August</span>, and with it came the realization that I <i>riddy riddy</i> needed to get a little more motivated on that uniform project. This also represents the moment at which I declared defeat on any realistic participation in the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge, 2013. (A moment of silence please, for my good intentions.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguCEzb39cAuhhGSPb2xoC-O_txwy0S5UNKkpobGUfh3F3jYFfGNNQjD4gVeWVt5E1jbO3mxfHDmdajwXGFFtRZWAGXlYr5L3fnzNB-cXHuQxbNA7ls9fLhgWQUOdQxKcY9GIcGfPpQFv9Y/s1600/IMG_5006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguCEzb39cAuhhGSPb2xoC-O_txwy0S5UNKkpobGUfh3F3jYFfGNNQjD4gVeWVt5E1jbO3mxfHDmdajwXGFFtRZWAGXlYr5L3fnzNB-cXHuQxbNA7ls9fLhgWQUOdQxKcY9GIcGfPpQFv9Y/s1600/IMG_5006.JPG" height="400" width="298" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Why, HELLO antique original shirt-waist! So nice of you to provide a pattern!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">September</span> brought a new series of adventures. First, a childhood friend (and virtually the only person that I knew in High School that I still have any meaningful contact with) got hitched. I was a bridesmaid, and enjoyed my be-ruffled ambiguously purple-colored dress duties to the fullest.<br />
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Mistakes were made, though.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieNb-JMVQVhqzryLS2MM4vdUY3txWowa203UzFV-7ktZbqSRPzXRGTyIrwhwbBR_w6PTuaJ2TapKHag2bcpBWqC3CHwvmWj5BlJlMyNppNhsLcRjwv_Zo7-q-ro0WbTPNSsqisKaLOwtAZ/s1600/IMG_5282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieNb-JMVQVhqzryLS2MM4vdUY3txWowa203UzFV-7ktZbqSRPzXRGTyIrwhwbBR_w6PTuaJ2TapKHag2bcpBWqC3CHwvmWj5BlJlMyNppNhsLcRjwv_Zo7-q-ro0WbTPNSsqisKaLOwtAZ/s1600/IMG_5282.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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RED RUM</div>
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This is an un-retouched picture of the color I somehow managed to dye my hair in September. It's a shade of red usually seen only on the surface of the sun. It matched my acne beautifully, so there's the silver lining in <i>that</i> little cloud. Luckily, I managed to tame the beast a few weeks later with another box of goodness from the grocery store beauty aisle. (Or as I like to call it, "The Promenade of Self-Esteem Roulette".)</div>
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<img height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0dJSbBQp9RKZRcxD7rkj3iuvndYnjW6jmVkUtKD3AI6otlGXOe7OotPXTLfp7XHWHiG01BRR8UugCljfnl7j67V7B_v7P3lG8r7XWZ00subBOd07NTDSc7qer4V50UPFn1JR0vS3-kat/s1600/IMG_5484.JPG" width="400" /></div>
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<i>"You shouldn't buy discontinued hair dye from the clearance bin at Bi-Lo."</i></div>
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Thank you, Beatrice. I'll keep that in mind.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">October</span> holds a special place in my heart. This year was no different:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzIuN07D7y9u5mr3_cGIdd3teSPI2EN1Giogl2nE1k_Oz8DBufMZo73nSSCsIhNngKidT3Wno47A4krOxcVI6Iu7z-qxPo00UGyf2a37fyFHQTpDaPcwkDWhZQZaVy0RaU_3YOIK2mJCe/s1600/IMG_5246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzIuN07D7y9u5mr3_cGIdd3teSPI2EN1Giogl2nE1k_Oz8DBufMZo73nSSCsIhNngKidT3Wno47A4krOxcVI6Iu7z-qxPo00UGyf2a37fyFHQTpDaPcwkDWhZQZaVy0RaU_3YOIK2mJCe/s1600/IMG_5246.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Assorted facial mucus + non-insulated floors + dress pattern = Happy 32nd Birthday to ME!</span></div>
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This was also the last full month of sewing before the project was due. I finally hit my stride around the third week. Meanwhile, my nephew leveled up to a whole new echelon of awesome:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8h-Gt6hhzmqVNAGanzXMz_ezgLCkLsiE2ZJZyWyuKe9UdbCwA8K9y_oejgakkfRDZCqgwKb6DfHFmJDrRuNY6WewF2_3jILMpthrvp_ltweWe6Fxigf-9BjtB-2bLuqtlSeHuOa_Ppphl/s1600/IMG_5316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8h-Gt6hhzmqVNAGanzXMz_ezgLCkLsiE2ZJZyWyuKe9UdbCwA8K9y_oejgakkfRDZCqgwKb6DfHFmJDrRuNY6WewF2_3jILMpthrvp_ltweWe6Fxigf-9BjtB-2bLuqtlSeHuOa_Ppphl/s1600/IMG_5316.JPG" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The Indian Maiden is bowing her head and weeping on behalf of my Sister-in-law's home decor. </span></div>
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The fresh killing fields of<span style="font-size: large;"> November</span> were finally upon me. In celebration, I spent FOUR DAYS STRAIGHT sewing without sleep. </div>
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Four.</div>
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Days.</div>
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Straight.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyTSyBdoVmmX50_q8D-f9mLqffsPJ-Y1pY9M_-u4SoiZvvZBs2qlYIJtQr4pmtzcZI2hwpHd928EB5j9RRHKyy6dSUTimNZ-A7BgFJBg3vqSIi9_WuwFxln_oCM2Bi7TuaUuc2sPgA4AUT/s1600/IMG_5343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyTSyBdoVmmX50_q8D-f9mLqffsPJ-Y1pY9M_-u4SoiZvvZBs2qlYIJtQr4pmtzcZI2hwpHd928EB5j9RRHKyy6dSUTimNZ-A7BgFJBg3vqSIi9_WuwFxln_oCM2Bi7TuaUuc2sPgA4AUT/s1600/IMG_5343.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Lest you think (as I did) that "four days without sleep" is comparable to "that week of finals in 2010 when I only got like, 6 hours of sleep total over the course of 5 days and I thought I was gonna<i> die</i>", think again. Going without any sleep at all for more than a day or two is pretty stupid, if you have a choice in the matter. Four days is just plain insane. Please take this as a public service announcement from your Friendly Neighborhood ThreadHead: Don't procrastinate on a project to the point that such things are even within your scope of consideration. </div>
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But, the project went up and life went on. (I'll do a project post soon. Too much to cram into this little jewel.)</div>
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The day after I installed the uniform project, I went to the Northern Carolina and spent a few days with my mother as she recovered from surgery. As soon as she was able to get around a little, I went home and jumped into finishing the school semester. In the process, I got my first "B" of graduate school.</div>
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I really, really want to whine about that. Really. But I absolutely deserved it. <i>Sigh.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0dJSbBQp9RKZRcxD7rkj3iuvndYnjW6jmVkUtKD3AI6otlGXOe7OotPXTLfp7XHWHiG01BRR8UugCljfnl7j67V7B_v7P3lG8r7XWZ00subBOd07NTDSc7qer4V50UPFn1JR0vS3-kat/s1600/IMG_5484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0dJSbBQp9RKZRcxD7rkj3iuvndYnjW6jmVkUtKD3AI6otlGXOe7OotPXTLfp7XHWHiG01BRR8UugCljfnl7j67V7B_v7P3lG8r7XWZ00subBOd07NTDSc7qer4V50UPFn1JR0vS3-kat/s1600/IMG_5484.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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"<i>You should have spent more time proof reading that final paper on Runaway Slave Advertisements instead of shopping for Korean cosmetics."</i></div>
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Thank you, Advice Chicken. But you're a little late.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">December</span> was calming. The semester was finished, the uniform project was well-received, and I finally started to re-establish normal sleep patterns. It was unseasonably warm all Winter here in Carolina-South, but we had a lot of these to make up for the snow:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsRvT2yqKEfgOInh7FWjqugdxn9OmdksqBIM88opIJcIKSkMNjoDeRfbL01gJrJohou-rgWYGN2LCZJOfeIrQLAfIuZa_NtMbCsWB55C3w_bPvXGPQZGqdkhU4raMQAUbIoAvasGqi1_K/s1600/IMG_5821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsRvT2yqKEfgOInh7FWjqugdxn9OmdksqBIM88opIJcIKSkMNjoDeRfbL01gJrJohou-rgWYGN2LCZJOfeIrQLAfIuZa_NtMbCsWB55C3w_bPvXGPQZGqdkhU4raMQAUbIoAvasGqi1_K/s1600/IMG_5821.JPG" height="297" width="400" /></a></div>
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Which is totally boss.<br />
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Side note! This is what the Manly Person and I made for his dad for Christmas to aid in the ongoing war against Belligerent Free-Loading Deer:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-YWG3PNvCNZ2KYHqZoj8mPp7ChzN_WFRFvbX38DZWTCQYnAXiFbVht4akCTsw4vWitzMpgoP4LBG3LT-rW_53t-tQPa3_t7Tngnp1QnNMDY6JIpL7O3V7RYQYtrkPlwiyXsEf_9d5Voj/s1600/IMG_5836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-YWG3PNvCNZ2KYHqZoj8mPp7ChzN_WFRFvbX38DZWTCQYnAXiFbVht4akCTsw4vWitzMpgoP4LBG3LT-rW_53t-tQPa3_t7Tngnp1QnNMDY6JIpL7O3V7RYQYtrkPlwiyXsEf_9d5Voj/s1600/IMG_5836.JPG" height="640" width="476" /></a></div>
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<i>I'm looking for a few Scare-Hoes to liven up nights near the muscadine vines... pls txt.</i></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">January</span> brought several awesome things this year. I was invited by my guy's mother to attend the <a href="http://www.mesda.org/">MESDA</a> seminar on textiles this year, so I began the month with a trip to Charleston with her. We got a dusting of snow in the middle of the month (and possibly another in a few days! Hurray!) and the new semester began. I've officially started my thesis, but I'm also taking an independent study in weaving. I've always wanted to learn to weave. Studying 18th century weave structures is so much more rewarding when you can relate to the method of manufacture. I have a lot to learn, but it has been pure joy so far. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqahPdV59Ywl5ZANpFox-0Ny98b0iMNwj8ybt9B1TIqEbIBzFI6ZrVuegpiteNQooT2_wRqZHcVcE9mElEYw3F9knMpkRx4OsQgc5lera1GvQrNQgP02DWuTY87lGYYcBdZPJ4_2Vjipy4/s1600/IMG_6485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqahPdV59Ywl5ZANpFox-0Ny98b0iMNwj8ybt9B1TIqEbIBzFI6ZrVuegpiteNQooT2_wRqZHcVcE9mElEYw3F9knMpkRx4OsQgc5lera1GvQrNQgP02DWuTY87lGYYcBdZPJ4_2Vjipy4/s1600/IMG_6485.JPG" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Modified Basket-Weave!</span></div>
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I wish I could say that <span style="font-size: large;">February</span> has been as good, but I can't. It has been pretty tough. My constant companion and Thread-Head mascot, BatMan, is unwell. After a lethargic week followed by a day of ignoring his food, I took the Bat-Cat to the vet. Diagnosis is advanced renal failure, which means that I'm going to lose my buddy a lot sooner than I ever imagined. He was at the vet clinic several days last week, and came home yesterday evening. He goes back tomorrow for another blood test. Pretty much anything that we do for him at this point is palliative care.</div>
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I haven't been given any reason to expect a miracle, but that doesn't stop me from hoping. He's a good cat. The best. And it breaks my heart to think of what may come.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAaKx9wfCtXRlJMr3Nlc0cpuo2h_zz8dvBNE40pe7gAdClkzgQNIh-_EdMl2rFjfndRR98Hl4o59PqGwLiCkm6eOJBxen30ohO0OC-Ye6ZswK3y8EuhZ5FM8CdGY4qumIr-QC3RTIBb-2V/s1600/IMG_5247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAaKx9wfCtXRlJMr3Nlc0cpuo2h_zz8dvBNE40pe7gAdClkzgQNIh-_EdMl2rFjfndRR98Hl4o59PqGwLiCkm6eOJBxen30ohO0OC-Ye6ZswK3y8EuhZ5FM8CdGY4qumIr-QC3RTIBb-2V/s1600/IMG_5247.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Noble Beast, in repose.</div>
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And there you have it. The ongoing story of Alison, Were-Hag of the Southern Colonies will continue, despite the fervent prayers of some of my readers. As soon as I can motivate myself, I intend to sneak a few expository posts into the dead-air of the past months. In the meantime, thanks for checking in and Happy 2014 to my Bloggy peeps. You have been missed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0dJSbBQp9RKZRcxD7rkj3iuvndYnjW6jmVkUtKD3AI6otlGXOe7OotPXTLfp7XHWHiG01BRR8UugCljfnl7j67V7B_v7P3lG8r7XWZ00subBOd07NTDSc7qer4V50UPFn1JR0vS3-kat/s1600/IMG_5484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_0dJSbBQp9RKZRcxD7rkj3iuvndYnjW6jmVkUtKD3AI6otlGXOe7OotPXTLfp7XHWHiG01BRR8UugCljfnl7j67V7B_v7P3lG8r7XWZ00subBOd07NTDSc7qer4V50UPFn1JR0vS3-kat/s1600/IMG_5484.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>"That burning smell means that it's time to turn dinner over and cook the other side."</i></div>
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Yes, Beatri.... AAAGGHHHH!!!!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghx3LUkwJh4yy8vXfD5m0nJ1aboLyqfpzdKhAje02nc9t8KLUBp-km0CobTpRvcD1p065JaavYZd-fx8ZTONlpdC7COtUJczk2m7Nrjv_0KozNmt5GQtMEC2u6LdfMVDr4mR7ThNMqfo97/s1600/DSC02858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghx3LUkwJh4yy8vXfD5m0nJ1aboLyqfpzdKhAje02nc9t8KLUBp-km0CobTpRvcD1p065JaavYZd-fx8ZTONlpdC7COtUJczk2m7Nrjv_0KozNmt5GQtMEC2u6LdfMVDr4mR7ThNMqfo97/s400/DSC02858.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Him: "What exactly are we going for?"</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Me: "Pretend like this turns you on."</span></div>
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My inner nerd rejoices. Oh, how she rejoices.<br />
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But!!! In addition to pandering to my (undoubtedly) salivating public with soft-focus pictures of myself in Regency drag, I wanted to show off a new piece in my reenactrix arsenal: My frilled collar!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwqApxCa-kI9kzpvZLnj975Pbk00FcmNr4xh8groUX9KSMGxo_br9zQvqUFMO6BoHyxH-ioU8u4TxyA5GSoG_rMj94RoBMFDOAHkq1o6671_zcn00lxLotrTaYOjWjZnpLFCAhwdtggXS/s1600/DSC02867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwqApxCa-kI9kzpvZLnj975Pbk00FcmNr4xh8groUX9KSMGxo_br9zQvqUFMO6BoHyxH-ioU8u4TxyA5GSoG_rMj94RoBMFDOAHkq1o6671_zcn00lxLotrTaYOjWjZnpLFCAhwdtggXS/s400/DSC02867.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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I've blogged about the <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2013/03/oh-say-cant-you-regency-hsf-6.html">dress</a> and <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2013/07/a-picture-of-my-cat-in-bonnet-you-got-it.html">bonnet</a> before, but haven't had a chance to mention the frill. Here's the scoop: As evidenced by my occasional posts lauding <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/">American Duchess</a> (and others), I'm keen on supporting talented, entrepreneurial folks in the historic costuming blogosphere. I purchased this frilled collar from Cassidy at<a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.com/"> A Most Beguiling Accomplishment</a> a few months ago, and I am so glad that I did! Relentless optimism has its place (in online dating and while eating at restaurants with "B" sanitation grades, for instance), and I'm usually all for trying something that's beyond my skill grade before relenting and sourcing it elsewhere. But, I could not have produced a piece like this. It's exquisitely made, and fits under my modest collection of Regency-wear perfectly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfjSw7bPI-X_j0zeuW3aVf8Ml_Y0NVVcXV633xOPAQl8qUKZotW7ut6-0GzW494REuNNOeWf0hjy8G9KYyI10MKZ9pvRCBRUo_sCkMo7mF-f1ZU3BGJpZFHtJBtP90T-x9r5yGe-QX2MeK/s1600/DSC02872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfjSw7bPI-X_j0zeuW3aVf8Ml_Y0NVVcXV633xOPAQl8qUKZotW7ut6-0GzW494REuNNOeWf0hjy8G9KYyI10MKZ9pvRCBRUo_sCkMo7mF-f1ZU3BGJpZFHtJBtP90T-x9r5yGe-QX2MeK/s400/DSC02872.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cassidy's Etsy shop is called "<a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/mimicofmodes">La Petite Oye</a>". She sells manchettes, collars, and chemisettes (among other things), all of which are made by hand and based on items she has researched. Allow me to repeat that: This is <i>entirely</i> hand-sewn. None of that "visible seams are hand-finished" business. That's classy. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixZ_35hQ4hvuYbS3BHkvkpGAwWi1nqYtYL4yVbPqMS4qb91fX0j_wde-E8q9BJpTzXeRwkDSjdnXhoiKuS8DCjHOB-PIhkpU7YT1EYwBDvCTxhnGXGwBFiI39n0NLAjxgzgj38-J4kUVED/s1600/DSC02861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixZ_35hQ4hvuYbS3BHkvkpGAwWi1nqYtYL4yVbPqMS4qb91fX0j_wde-E8q9BJpTzXeRwkDSjdnXhoiKuS8DCjHOB-PIhkpU7YT1EYwBDvCTxhnGXGwBFiI39n0NLAjxgzgj38-J4kUVED/s400/DSC02861.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now, if only I could find an equally unimpeachable source for Regency hairstyling tips for use in 9000% humidity. Seriously... not even a pint of Aqua Net with a dry shampoo shooter can keep a curl crispy in this mess. Just one of the many perks of a day well spent in the hillbilly-scented sauna of South Carolina.Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-40944885177880090932013-07-07T04:18:00.000-04:002013-07-07T04:18:00.199-04:00Leather Stays Again! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
From the Summer 2012 Thread-Headed Bust-or-Bust Collection, we proudly present yet another pair of leather stays! </div>
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(I'll quietly wait here as you drool over my contorted flesh.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEA1GauqhC_c_jtbph61EO8tmhflsYOBTVci0OHZjIzY1fo2rPBAAC2g8tmbIy1cQIp90BL9gbdoiTDKcgNUNycjow9r1Z1vGQoG38d0irtzi_FHmLQiMsM-NZkD7GLybxzV715SxnAQmc/s1600/067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEA1GauqhC_c_jtbph61EO8tmhflsYOBTVci0OHZjIzY1fo2rPBAAC2g8tmbIy1cQIp90BL9gbdoiTDKcgNUNycjow9r1Z1vGQoG38d0irtzi_FHmLQiMsM-NZkD7GLybxzV715SxnAQmc/s640/067.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Mmm... Squozen.</div>
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I pretty much continually obsess over leather stays. That's normal, right? I think about them more than I think about housecleaning (har!) or eliminating my increasingly obvious mustache <i>combined</i>. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(Not that there is much else to do here in the great state of "93% Humidity" in the town of "Flash-Flood Warnings Since Monday.") </span>And yes, you read the "2012" correctly at the top. I cut these out almost exactly a year ago, and haven't gotten around to posting about them til now. Please feel free to make up your own excuses for me; I've grown weary of providing my own.<br />
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Construction and tools are pretty similar to my <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/01/simple-stays-leather-stays-tutorial.html">very</a> <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/01/simple-stays-leather-stays-tutorial_29.html">first</a> <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/01/simple-stays-leather-stays-tutorial_31.html">pair</a>, except that I used the previous stays as my starting pattern rather than going back to<a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/"> Drea's Elizabethan corset generator</a>. After more than a year of use, I had a pretty good idea of the changes I wanted to make. The most obvious change is, of course, the front-lacing action. I wasn't sure that I cared for it in theory or practice, but I wanted the experience. Now, I'm a convert to the style. These are SO much easier to get on and off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMappkw5ZlcXnZDk2MrIlvRWUWacvutFLmqtjQHtfIq4pYrobSOQi5_ogRIi5HJSwCbCcsFugpS8Ht_QwBQQPfO946r-_sqRF9K7YFq4pTUGmYk3Cyxkpli-gY5BEZg82L36NZVRYU8BR/s1600/066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMappkw5ZlcXnZDk2MrIlvRWUWacvutFLmqtjQHtfIq4pYrobSOQi5_ogRIi5HJSwCbCcsFugpS8Ht_QwBQQPfO946r-_sqRF9K7YFq4pTUGmYk3Cyxkpli-gY5BEZg82L36NZVRYU8BR/s640/066.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">And for the record, yes, they do lace closed in the front. This was a quick n' dirty photo shoot out in the driveway. While you're at it, please ignore the shoestring lacing. </span></div>
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I changed the shape quite a bit as well. These are shorter, with a wider top and narrower back. The hip tabs flare out much higher than the original pair and the front "tummy panels" bow out slightly due to the changes I made to the hip area. Consequently, these are more flattering for the silhouette of 1780-1790(ish) styles than earlier years'. The decorative cutting on the outside surface was the product of idle experimentation more than historical accuracy or academic research. </div>
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What works: </div>
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* The front (and back) lacing. Adjustment, ingress and egress are vastly improved over the original set of leather stays.</div>
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* The changes to the silhouette. My movement (arm rotation, mainly) is much better. </div>
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* I used a thinner leather this time around, around 8 oz.. I was concerned initially that I'd lose support, but the weight of the leather is excellent and flexibility is improved. I doubt that I'd recommend using anything much thinner for this style, but meh? More experimentin' is needed. </div>
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What didn't/doesn't work:</div>
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* R.I.P. shoulder straps; I knew ye not. These were initially cut with shoulder straps rising from the back panels, to be secured to the front on either side of the bust.The straps were technically functional, but they were annoying and created weirdness under every garment I own. Two flicks of the knife later, they annoy me no more. I probably won't attempt to cut straps into the body of leather stays again. Piercing the leather (front and back) and cutting separate, floating straps is much easier and potentially adjustable. </div>
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I'm in the midst of two new pairs, one of which is based on an item in the <a href="http://www.digitaltmuseum.se/search?name=Livstycke&search_context=1&page=35">Nordiska Museet</a> collections. Hopefully at least one of those will be finished before the end of the year. (Not that you'll see them, of course. At the rate I'm currently finishing projects and posting, they should go "live" on the blog sometime in 2022.)</div>
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Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-37423288616857165822013-07-02T01:51:00.000-04:002013-07-02T01:51:20.926-04:00A picture of my cat in a bonnet? YOU GOT IT!!<br />
A long time ago, when the earth was still cooling, and I was still participating in the Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge, I made this here bonnet:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGTTsdVMttFq_E53XZubIC7lvhvC-v1Xu3YIpCMyYL6fFPMX9wptkO5zp4iVl7hpu5lVcq_6yOdEj4f_Li-FNuK6x6xqdJyEt6S-ylkcsvEm2zO-g4_LnbcJ6q7jTCGj3YjbjPuyaKkKiJ/s1600/023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGTTsdVMttFq_E53XZubIC7lvhvC-v1Xu3YIpCMyYL6fFPMX9wptkO5zp4iVl7hpu5lVcq_6yOdEj4f_Li-FNuK6x6xqdJyEt6S-ylkcsvEm2zO-g4_LnbcJ6q7jTCGj3YjbjPuyaKkKiJ/s400/023.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Lots of hand-modeling in this episode. Enjoy. </span></div>
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Well, sort of. The grim reality is that I purchased the bonnet from the nice people at <a href="http://www.austentation.com/">Austentation</a>, admired its braided nude straw goodness for about a month, and then slapped some seasonally indifferent flowers upon it.<br />
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<i><b>And here's how!!</b></i><br />
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All great projects start with a plan. In my case, I planned to go to bed early one night and instead ended up drunk on Etsy searching for things like "STRAW BONNET REGENCY BONNET REENACTOR FORM STRAW." That led me to <a href="http://www.austentation.com/">Austentation's</a> Etsy shop (<span style="font-size: x-small;">the link is to their website</span>), and eventually to the fine piece of millinery you see above. Once I had the bonnet in hand, I sought out inspiration. As you can imagine, there is NO lack of 200-year old bad bonnet ideas.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6LDYlmqHGZyPI6r_koNxlPR3y1TGzu2_V3TKmV9g_hXgFZgD0yuQ1FhF1cq5XWFB56uCbAgSUGUSw_QrkFyMSf5MoRNsKbNz_97eRfDM8YYomJhVz-MrO6al8_0QtoxhROa7y9spAnlAd/s1600/pretty+straw+plus+wtf+stars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6LDYlmqHGZyPI6r_koNxlPR3y1TGzu2_V3TKmV9g_hXgFZgD0yuQ1FhF1cq5XWFB56uCbAgSUGUSw_QrkFyMSf5MoRNsKbNz_97eRfDM8YYomJhVz-MrO6al8_0QtoxhROa7y9spAnlAd/s640/pretty+straw+plus+wtf+stars.jpg" width="409" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Courtesy of</span><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/" style="font-size: small;"> Nuranar</a><span style="font-size: x-small;">, who haunts my dreams AND my blog. I promise... the purple ruffle monster is not forgotten!</span></div>
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The relative simplicity of the plaid-trimmed number appealed to me, (sandwiched as it is between what appear to be lampshades embellished with adult diapers). But where does a girl find scalloped plaid silk ribbon in this crazy, crazy world?? Oh, yeah...<br />
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Using only a hammer, pinking iron and the power of my opposable thumbs, I <strike>violently</strike> carefully beautified the edges of some scrap silk taffeta that I'd previously cut into strips.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ebsEUUXcHnaTPmZze03pOWbPn3ALgRiwMpMlaiHrTuw2IUI6FHRdbqcQb0E05CF2n04tAgQu6xPg5Tmx9Dq1KN8SHhEZmZhKq2OsZh2FirO09C-eFSEMTdRBXJWGavKAwduZ9Fh7d0IO/s1600/012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ebsEUUXcHnaTPmZze03pOWbPn3ALgRiwMpMlaiHrTuw2IUI6FHRdbqcQb0E05CF2n04tAgQu6xPg5Tmx9Dq1KN8SHhEZmZhKq2OsZh2FirO09C-eFSEMTdRBXJWGavKAwduZ9Fh7d0IO/s400/012.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And then played around with them, singly and in layers, until I liked the effect. Everything was tacked onto the bonnet with brown cotton thread and my largest blunt needle. (It takes a while, but<a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/search/label/Bonnet%20Love"> I can learn</a>!)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9OxPzaXURFNs6tvAFSGKyQLSbqyQVwNCWOnXgVYdWQNAOAF2FNHh7-eNnzBLblnG5lYdVOEVnGsqsot0GFCkaK1ctMvLqhTdLEtR-PoHcvsguPzKuTizrJsvr1M8-KeX-dHKydQ3G7HJA/s1600/016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9OxPzaXURFNs6tvAFSGKyQLSbqyQVwNCWOnXgVYdWQNAOAF2FNHh7-eNnzBLblnG5lYdVOEVnGsqsot0GFCkaK1ctMvLqhTdLEtR-PoHcvsguPzKuTizrJsvr1M8-KeX-dHKydQ3G7HJA/s400/016.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I acquired the poppies for this bonnet from H*bby L*bby, but the rest of the bodacious floral bounty is left over from other projects. The flowers were sewn down by their stems, one at a time. Each stem is wrapped around at least one other flower before being attached. I tell myself that this is to ensure stability and strength, but in all honesty, it just made the sewing easier. (No more roly-poly stem chasing!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1amk9bsLk4Y3bJNdKO2hoDZ3nlhgBsxqYC-hsj-BfhNVSA6wuCfC-ujzD5UOvGmKLGk3xSFdrxlS-ER8Xk26cBzqDzyjwaKWk8knicWxfTdpk1N8iF8awle-Os-1T3gMY31Ti_C5IGlTI/s1600/021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1amk9bsLk4Y3bJNdKO2hoDZ3nlhgBsxqYC-hsj-BfhNVSA6wuCfC-ujzD5UOvGmKLGk3xSFdrxlS-ER8Xk26cBzqDzyjwaKWk8knicWxfTdpk1N8iF8awle-Os-1T3gMY31Ti_C5IGlTI/s400/021.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Yes, the poppies look sad. You'd look sad too if you had to ride around on my head.</span></div>
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Sooo.... who wants to help me create a South Carolina chapter of the Regency Society?? Seriously, I have NOWHERE TO WEAR THIS STUFF. It's pathetic. No War of 1812 Battle Reenactments, no Regency Fairs (or Faires or Fayres), no nuttin'. Perhaps it's finally time to post an advertisement in the local paper and reach out to my fellow costuming nutcases.</div>
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Or maybe I'll just stick with my current occupation of eating drugstore chocolate and writing to strangers on the internet. </div>
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Yeah... that sounds like a solid plan.</div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Challenge: </strong></em><strong style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">#7: Accessorize!</strong><br />
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Fabric: </b>Scraps of pink plaid silk taffeta left over from... you guessed it! The Jehossee Project. </em></span></div>
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<strong style="font-size: 14px; font-style: inherit;"><em>Pattern:</em></strong><em style="font-size: 14px;"> NEVER!!!!</em></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Year: </b>1812ish</em></span></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Notions: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Assorted faux-floral odds and bits, thread, and silk remnant masquerading as ribbons.</span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">How historically accurate is it? </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Aside from the questionable flower content, not bad. </span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hours to complete:</strong><span style="font-style: inherit;"> 4</span></em></div>
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<i><b>First worn:</b> By my cat. </i></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Total cost: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">$30 for bonnet; $6.00 for flowers</span></em></div>
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Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-25286340658149664922013-06-25T01:55:00.002-04:002013-06-25T01:55:39.850-04:001891 Speaks!Howdy, y'all!<br />
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Not to pretend that my posts are <i>ever</i> the result of laser-like focus, I'd still like to warn you in advance that this particular post is especially random and off-topic.<br />
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As most of you have tried very hard to forget, I work at a bookstore in a very small town. My days are spent in awkward extremes: I answer emails and handle customer service for our thriving online business selling new books, as well as working with "vintage" (used!) and "antique" (very used!) books that are traded and donated to the store. I won't lie... it's an incredibly glamorous life. One minute, I'm trying to explain to an elderly lady in HorseShoe Bend, Idaho that her recently purchased e-Book will <i>not</i> be coming in the mail anytime soon. Then a little later, I'm rummaging through a rat-chewed box of dilapidated estate-sale books donated by a grunting family of non-reading locals who insist that "ain't nobody gonna read that stuff 'cause it's boring."<br />
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And, to be fair, a lot of it is boring. But! Sometimes, there are lovely, dusty old books with the scent of sweetly aging paper. And sometimes, those wonderful old books settle into your open palm like a broody bird on a nest, and fall open with something akin to a sigh. And sometimes (more often than you'd think), something secret and sacred, committed in elegant spirals of ink upon crisp paper will flutter to the floor. I love the things people tuck inside of books. It's a such a human habit! We can't help ourselves. I've found money, love notes, wedding photos, divorce decrees, car titles, ultra-sound pictures, movie tickets, playing cards, post cards, speeding tickets, hair bows, canned food labels, handkerchiefs, swizzle sticks, canceled stamps and more. My favorites, though, are old letters.<br />
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For those of you who are still with me, what follows is a transcription of a letter I found this week inside of an 1880's children's book. It features hot n' heavy talk of family flannel-drawer making (including a pair for "Budgie" the dog?). I hope you enjoy it! (And for the quitters who can't face another wall of text, see you next time!)<br />
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<i>Home 10-12-1891</i><br />
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<i>Dear Daughter-</i><br />
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<i> I am commencing thy letter with Budgie in my lap. He got hurt and feels as though he is a baby. Pa had just come home from [the] mill and he got in the hack and was on top of the sacks and slipped some way and almost fell out but hit on the wheel and cut a gash about an inch long just over the outer part of his right eye. It has bled a good deal and yet almost 2 hours since it happened is bleeding some yet. And now he has got ink all over my paper. So thee can play that is a kiss from him to thee. </i><br />
<i> Anna brought her books home this evening and isn't going to Brushwood any more. But will start to No. 1 I suppose and Emma wanted to stop to[o] and the other girls wanted to know if they might stop of Brushwood if Emma did. I told them they could but Emma would not stop. And so that nipped it all in the bud.</i><br />
<i> The Academy is having a boom this fall. I believe they have seventy pupils now. The largest number they ever had during one term. I guess I will have enough cider left to make all the pickles thee can eat for one while. I have made 1 1/2 gallons of mixed pickles and nearly 3 of Margo's and am going to make pickle lilly yet.</i><br />
<i> I got a letter from Uncle Ed the other day. He says he is very poorly and Lind has been out lately and Bruce is going to Lind's and study Telegraphy and Iona is going to school at Deming, and there was a picture of Mark in his wagon and his goats hitched to it. It looks very much like him.</i><br />
<i> And Uncle Ed said that he would watch out for thee a place. He is Principal of a ward school and has seven teachers under him. Their baby's name is Georgie. We have pumpkins like every thing. Sallie brought up three wagon loads this afternoon and there had been about 2 loads brought up before.</i><br />
<i> How are thy canton flannel drawers? I never thought to ask about them when thee was at home. We are in the business this week. We have made Pa two pairs today also Emma the same number. We wanted to make for Mary, Grace, Jessie and myself yet and make some for Budgie.</i><br />
<i> If thee has money enough I guess thee had better get thee a gossamer. I intended to have got thee one during the summer, but thee knows when we went to town what a time we would have spending money. I wish thee would come home every morning and comb my hair. Then I would give thee thy breakfast in exchange. Well I have about run out of anything to say and will close for this time. We will bring Mary home sixth day. We have about a bushel of walnuts and peck of hickory nuts. Don't know whether we will get any more or not.</i><br />
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<i>Bye Bye-</i><br />
<i>Mamma</i><br />
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<br />Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-77784725858581668842013-06-01T01:41:00.004-04:002013-06-01T01:41:47.777-04:00If Blogs were like children, the state would have taken mine away by now.Awesomeness.<br />
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So these past two months of never, ever posting have been AMAZING. I wrote most of this post last month, when I'd only been absent from these hallowed grounds for about 3 weeks. Don't worry: It's been updated for additional pathos! For everyone who is completely in thrall of my personal life, pray, read onward!<br />
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* I have had the most incredible combination of plagues. After toughing it out for a couple of weeks, I finally went to the doctor (much fanfare and fuss and all that). I was diagnosed with a sinus infection, acute bronchitis, and "a touch of pneumonia." Apparently, my doctor is a fan of nuance.<br />
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* Finals week happened, which was great except for the fact it lasted two weeks, not including the ever-excellent "Week Before Finals: Tournament of Badassery." (You know, that magical four day period before exams when EVERY SINGLE PROJECT IS DUE?) So that's three weeks of Academic Purgatory with a dose of Thread-Headed procrastination for the win!<br />
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* After worrying over it for a day, I decided to foster a stray cat that appeared at my work one night. After worrying over it for less than an evening, the cat decided to chew through a 60-year old steel screen and flee into the unknown night rather than spend another moment in my home. What can I say? I have a way with animals.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Sweet little tuxedo man outside of my store, before the jail-breaking at my house later that night. Please send good thoughts his way.</span></div>
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* In a fit of sleep deprivation-fueled insanity during the sickies, I found myself in the makeup aisle at Target where I bought a tube of red lipstick. This proved to be the exact same terrible idea that it has been the last 12 times that I bought a tube of red lipstick. Generally speaking, I look like a female. (Not bragging. I really sort of do.) Add an extra dash of eye makeup and some red lipstick? I look like a man in drag. Red lipstick #13 is now enjoying an ignominious burial in a purse I plan to never open again. <i>**5.31.13 Update: I bought another tube of red lipstick. This one may be an improvement, because I look like a hooker now rather than a sexually confused lumberjack.</i><br />
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* I emerged from the chrysalis three weeks ago to check my email, whereupon I discovered that I was supposed to give a speech to some people on the following Tuesday (oops) about a museum exhibit I had to put up a week later (crap.) But it was okay because I had to give a presentation on that Friday, too. Different group of people, same disappointed glares. Gotta love it.<br />
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* Despite lacking coordination, motivation or any natural sense of joint articulation, I've decided to go "jogging" on my free mornings this Summer. This has resulted in every 10:00 a.m. Mommy Walker in the county protectively steering their strollers away from me as I "jog" down the path. I don't blame them. I managed to hit myself in the face twice on my first morning out, <i>with my own hands</i>. (In all fairness, I have it on good authority that I run like Jar Jar Binks.)<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Here's your ticket to...<i> the gun show</i>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Also: that bottle of green food coloring has been there, along with his friend the solitary star candle, for at least 3 months. </span></div>
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* Historical Sew Fortnightly <i>Who</i>? Yeah. I've been bad. Keeping up with the sew-a-thon was a good way of organizing my time. I really need to get back into it, with some alterations. Starting ASAP, I'm working on a research project for school. Southern Ladies' College uniforms c. 1895-1910, anyone?? Hopefully, the upcoming HSF challenges will include things like "Make A Nineteenth Century Woollen Suit Entirely Based On Two Grainy Photographs" and "Create Several Nearly-Identical Blouses With Gigot Sleeves Based On A Vague Student Handbook Reference."<br />
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And to wrap up the wall of belligerent rambling, I'm happy to report that my absence of two months has not gone unnoticed! I've gained 15 (undoubtedly loyal) readers since my last post. The secret to building a readership here at Ye Olde Snippet is apparently to avoid any and all forms of contact with you guys. For giving my fragile ego a much-needed boost, I say THANK YOU!<br />
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More lies and whimsy to come! Be back soon!Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-15056564336355074172013-04-03T01:38:00.003-04:002013-04-03T22:24:34.982-04:00Fancy Shoes and a WTF Wannabe!<span style="font-size: large;">Ways to "Be Creative" with your fine Regency self:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Ways <i>NOT</i> to "Be Creative" with your fine Regency self:</span><br />
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<i>"Tuppence, for the last time, that's NOT A CLOAK OF INVISIBILITY."</i></div>
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<a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/">American Duchess</a> has trotted out the New and Awesomely Fancy Regency slipper! Check it out:</div>
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I know what you're thinking... those are some SERIOUSLY sexy ankles. The shoes compliment them nicely. Pre-orders are open, and the price is amazing. (I spent almost half that on a pair of Etsy Bridesmaid Specials! Dammit,<a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/"> Lauren</a>...) </div>
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Thank you everyone who accepted the Inspiring Blogger Award! Being nice to people is an uncomfortable and unfamiliar prospect for me, but the pay-off has been fantastic! I've been stockpiling new blogs from everyone else's nominations like an Extreme Couponer with deodorant. </div>
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It's been Spring for a couple of weeks now, but I never count it until after Easter. So you know what? HAPPY FREAKING SPRING!!!</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">ETA: Sorry for the late-breaking news, but mad props (always and forever) to<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/collections/72157624601520326/"> Nuranar</a> for the voluptuous vixen in a veil! </span></div>
Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-78303435010042736652013-03-27T03:36:00.002-04:002013-03-27T03:36:21.844-04:00I'd like to thank the academy...You guys...I totally got another blog award. Such is the state of my fragile ego, that being granted the privilege of participating in what amounts to the digital version of a group hug has made my MONTH.<br />
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Look at it. Bask in it. Oh, how I love blogging.<br />
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I owe my nomination to Lauren at <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/">American Duchess</a>, who is not only inspiring as a blogger, she's an entrepreneur and a pretty dang intrepid gal all around. If I had half of her gumption, I'd have a Doctorate and a clean house by now.<br />
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As usual, there are stipulations. I am obliged to tell all of you guys 7 awesomely random things about myself (as if I have a shut-off valve for doing that anyway), and then select 15 of my personal favorite inspiring bloggers to pass the love onto.<br />
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<b><i>Awesomely Random Things:</i></b><br />
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* I am obsessed with pillowcases. Let me say that again: I am OBSESSED with pillowcases. My personal preference is for antique cases (light on the embroidery, thanks) made of long-staple cotton. They must remain cool to the touch at all times and "feel right" (whatever that means). Seriously. I have this entire tortured process of examining and fondling each prospective case that takes place in the market stalls of long-suffering linen merchants at antique fairs and junk stores. Naturally, I'm overly defensive of said pillowcases and have been known to pay exorbitant ransoms to get them back from hotels when they are inadvertently left behind.<br />
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* I've made 11 wedding cakes since 2005. Of those 11 happy couples, 2 are still married. What does this tell you? HIRE A PROFESSIONAL.<br />
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* As a particularly coordinated and attentive young adult, I managed for a period of time to have both an arm AND leg cast. The injuries were sustained less than two weeks apart when I was 13, and for added fun, were both on the right side of my body. Yes, I'm predominantly a "righty." Good times!<br />
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* I freaking love reading mommy blogs. Especially Mormon mommy blogs. I don't know why. I possess neither children, a hipster husband or nice teeth. I am not of their tribe. But I am in thrall of them and I hope they never stop.<br />
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* Sewing profanity: I never, EVER iron as I sew. No matter what it is. At best, I'll hang the fabric on the clothesline for a few hours. My rationale is impeccable. I'm lazy and I hate to iron. I understand that this really is a big deal. I admire those who iron and I do get why people do it. But I just can't make myself.<br />
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* I don't eat pigs. Not for any respectable dietary, religious or moral reason. I just decided not to eat pigs one day and now, I don't. (I do have a mild pork allergy, which is usually the reason I cite for passing on the super pork deluxe baconater pepperoni pizza with ham sauce, when such things come up.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-39gC7T1yUr2Oul4x_WyHHon4f0luPv6zZHfkzB37hMIKs8YIjOWZHE8yb2_UnOSlbkGoxDELArOH2_EPFGxaygmf0VJ3FLk3tEpeYhoOffp663kYa3fXWRIRmyTUc1bhp3ZQVL4lUMGS/s1600/piggle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-39gC7T1yUr2Oul4x_WyHHon4f0luPv6zZHfkzB37hMIKs8YIjOWZHE8yb2_UnOSlbkGoxDELArOH2_EPFGxaygmf0VJ3FLk3tEpeYhoOffp663kYa3fXWRIRmyTUc1bhp3ZQVL4lUMGS/s320/piggle.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Piggy from<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pig"> Wiki</a></span></div>
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* At the 1992 end-of-summer awards ceremony at a YMCA-run camp, I was given a paper certificate to commemorate my achievement in the field of "Philosophical Thoughts." This is a testimony to both the pervasive culture of inclusion at government-funded camps and my utter and complete failure to act like a normal human child for even a single summer.<br />
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Alrighty! Time for the good stuff!<br />
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I went with blogs that inspire me AND that weren't on Lauren's list. No particular order, because that's just the kind of classy lady I am:<br />
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<a href="http://fashionablefrolick.blogspot.com/">A Fashionable Frolick</a>- Two sisters with a love of historic fashion and mad sewing skills? Yes, please.<br />
<a href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/">The Couture Courtesan</a>- Impeccable seamstress and historical interpreter (at Williamsburg, I believe) with wonderful taste. I love every new dress post!<br />
<a href="http://asartorialstatement.blogspot.com/">A Sartorial Statement</a>- Chelsea is a fearless costumer with an awesomely nerdy streak.<br />
<a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.com/">A Most Beguiling Accomplishment</a>- An incredibly skilled seamstress when she's not too busy broadening my horizons with her translations of French fashion plates and her research.<br />
<a href="http://kittycalash.com/">Kitty Calash</a>- I have never NOT laughed at one of her posts. She is an incredible seamstress and a wit, to boot!<br />
<a href="http://ladyannabelle-of-didmarton.blogspot.com/">Genteel Musings</a>- Annabelle can apparently do ANYTHING. I learn something every time she posts and I have fun while doing it.<br />
<a href="http://amostpeculiarmademoiselle.blogspot.com/">A Most Peculiar Mademoiselle</a>- Sarah in Sweden is amazing! She weaves, sews, embroiders and just to give me an even worse inferiority complex, recently started another blog (in Swedish) to assist Medieval Reenactors with historical accuracy.<br />
<a href="http://romantichistory.blogspot.com/">Romantic History</a>- Sarah Jane is a marvel. I have been reading her blog for several years and she constantly amazes me. Her eye for fit, proportion and color is amazing. She is a joy to read.<br />
<a href="http://artbeautyandwell-orderedchaos.blogspot.com/">Art, Beauty and Well-Ordered Chaos</a>- Come for the awesome articles, stay for the sense of humor. I'm a new reader to this one, but Gail's blog is a jewel.<br />
<a href="http://vintagevisions27.blogspot.com/">My Vintage Visions</a>- I love Emily's practical advice on enjoying a life in vintage clothing. Plus, she sews (and wears) it perfectly!<br />
<a href="http://couturearanel.blogspot.com/">Couture Aranel</a>- This blog is such a treat. There's a heavy mix of fantasy along with the history, which I really enjoy.<br />
<a href="http://storyofaseamstress.blogspot.com/">Story of a Seamstress</a>- Atlanta sews flawless garments from Regency through the 1950's, and will be getting married within days! I love what she shares of her lifestyle as well as her beautiful sewing.<br />
<a href="http://dressedintime.blogspot.com/">Dressed in Time</a>- Caroline produces at least one drool-worthy finished ensemble every month or two. I don't know how she does it, I'm just glad she writes about it.<br />
<a href="http://zipzipinkspot.blogspot.com/">A Frolick Through Time</a>- Natalie is an accomplished needlewoman who writes conversationally about her sewing exploits and invariably peaks my interest about something I've never heard of before. But as much as I love her blog, the genteel kindness of her quotidian sign-off to her comments (on her own blog or others) never fails to make me smile.<br />
<a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/">Festive Attyre</a>- I love the scope of her costuming interests!<br />
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I really need to notify everyone... I'll do that when it's not 3:00 in the morning.<br />
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Thank you again to<a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/"> Lauren</a>, and to everyone who shares their historic costuming and sewing fetish for all the world to see. Reading your blogs is one of the few reasons I am glad that I was born in the modern era after all.<br />
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<br />Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-33663697387928856352013-03-24T23:37:00.000-04:002013-03-24T23:37:44.134-04:00Oh, Say Can't You Regency? HSF #6!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Welcome to the sixth installment of the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge</a>: Stripes! I've made a Regency dress! If only I had a Homeschool Prom to attend whilst wearing it, my life could at last be complete. </div>
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Instead, I'll be filling the void by sitting at home in my pretty stripedy frock as I drink wine from a box, write embittered late-night WTF: Regency posts and talk to my cat.<i> It's what Jane Austen would have wanted, I'm sure of it.</i></div>
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It is a testimony to my lack of proper feminine instinct that I have failed to produce a Regency-style dress til now. Isn't there a clause somewhere in the government-issued booklet that girls receive at birth stating that you must read Emma by the age of 17 and then immediately afterward attempt to cobble together an empire-waist dress? Consider this gown to be yet another milestone in my own awkward, prolonged puberty. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(Dammit, I'm not going to act like a grown-up until the acne goes away!)</span></div>
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This dress was constructed like everything else I make: with almost no foresight or planning, and very little skill. I draped the bodice onto Headless June using some bodacious crappity-scrappity fabric that I possess (sorry... no pictures of that), and adjusted the proportions and seam positions until it felt right. For the most part, I relied on <a href="http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_736.htm">this dress</a> for inspiration, though I omitted the back ties and drawstring, and my sleeves are shorter. (I stared at <a href="http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk/collections/collection_search/DressDetails.aspx?objectID=batmc_i_09_940">this one</a> as well, but there aren't many pictures of the details.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgqKVAINZTGeOmhNlNGOgtZ0lhI10PGHUfLzmX7t5Qi4LpldVgsjnkHtOe1uNGRxPsMIK3v5JZifHEresOrNNStK-nHMyIs70-Zflpum-l5URaCj2VUOvKWxg62DzOoJR_9cCAU6y6wNlv/s1600/003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgqKVAINZTGeOmhNlNGOgtZ0lhI10PGHUfLzmX7t5Qi4LpldVgsjnkHtOe1uNGRxPsMIK3v5JZifHEresOrNNStK-nHMyIs70-Zflpum-l5URaCj2VUOvKWxg62DzOoJR_9cCAU6y6wNlv/s320/003.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rebel that I am, I mixed up my stitchery a bit. The areas that are likely to experience the most stress (armpits, center back, etc.), I finished with a back-stitch. Everything else is in a spaced back-stitch. You can see the transition in the armscye above. </span></div>
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The bodice is lined in cream cotton sateen, except for the bib. I used a scrap of the calico lining from my <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2013/01/historical-sew-fortnightly-2-ufo.html">gold round-gown</a> for that. The sleeves are mostly lined with muslin, but I used scraps of the striped fashion fabric for the first 4" or so of the bottom of the sleeve. The insides of the sleeves are not at all visible when the dress is on, but it seemed a reasonable precaution.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTyAnQMXyaYXaBRVSJyDvs7DudNpibZKdLI_djLnVCf2C6UfDrXeogO2kRS_UCSsBI7-630TcCKDZEjFNpZG72XzCXdpRTO-c9cl51QigcWlxlNDYqBiMN4dD9Z8nRX96R_xtDOupIOiBb/s1600/002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTyAnQMXyaYXaBRVSJyDvs7DudNpibZKdLI_djLnVCf2C6UfDrXeogO2kRS_UCSsBI7-630TcCKDZEjFNpZG72XzCXdpRTO-c9cl51QigcWlxlNDYqBiMN4dD9Z8nRX96R_xtDOupIOiBb/s320/002.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Since the inspiration gown has the nifty little inner bodice flaps, I did the same thing. I wanted mine to pin closed rather than tie, though. (I didn't want a drawstring in the bodice and the ties would have added lumpy weirdness under the flat, re-designed bib. LUMPY WEIRDNESS, I SAY!) They are made of white cotton sateen and attached over the finished interior edge. I have no idea if what I did there is correct, but I sure as heck did it. They support my meager bust in addition to closing the sides of the dress. Brilliant!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcVoqjV4ySVKdbKmyZFYmUKcNk0kgrMHnXsVmEXktQpVqMfjV2EkVWFmyRZrhpksyGf0oZRwMW3VWhPY3pkFnjDIRPxcGZTBlHK_2Lia9RU11h1i9R97A3OlUVv9vLTMoRabtbae8ME2RY/s1600/012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcVoqjV4ySVKdbKmyZFYmUKcNk0kgrMHnXsVmEXktQpVqMfjV2EkVWFmyRZrhpksyGf0oZRwMW3VWhPY3pkFnjDIRPxcGZTBlHK_2Lia9RU11h1i9R97A3OlUVv9vLTMoRabtbae8ME2RY/s400/012.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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The skirt is unlined. Honestly, if I were to make this dress again, I would line the skirt. The quilting cotton I used is just a little too thin to hang properly on its own. Hopefully, a period appropriate petticoat or two will help. The material of the skirt is pleated to a band and then enclosed between the bodice fashion fabric and lining. Per the original gown, the bulk of the skirt is pleated at the center back. (I'm making a little pillow that will be sewn under the pleats to support the back. They're hanging a little flat at the moment.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc90DYv15q1LwfY-e1Cda7nTUeOWekxqSGR5H8f49hA-DXvCYkUA-rlFUDBEfPlZVbE_V63j0KKDfoK63xgw7eT8ZHqpW1Y0hH7afc9s_eaoGGHyH8z0QFk8XdjMlih6ZwQoKikeTuOJ9P/s1600/014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc90DYv15q1LwfY-e1Cda7nTUeOWekxqSGR5H8f49hA-DXvCYkUA-rlFUDBEfPlZVbE_V63j0KKDfoK63xgw7eT8ZHqpW1Y0hH7afc9s_eaoGGHyH8z0QFk8XdjMlih6ZwQoKikeTuOJ9P/s320/014.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Why, hello there matching back stripes.</span></div>
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Regency gowns are generally constructed to play up the "small back" of the wearer. I pandered to this oft-quoted historical costuming trope by using the stripes to form a chevron pattern and inset the sleeves as far back as I could without over-reaching the limits of my own range of motion. There's a knack to setting these sleeves... a wide armscye will give you a much broader range of motion, but your sleeve has to have just enough bulk to allow your arm to take advantage of it. Otherwise, the tiny back/deep armscye combination restricts your arm movement considerably. Needless to say, I am still learning the ins and outs of this balancing act.<br />
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I purchased the fabric for this dress over three years ago during an epic Hanc*ck Fabrics sale at my local store. This was a remnant on a bolt with a generous 50" selvedge. That is a critical factor for the following reason: this dress is made with barely 3 yards of fabric. That may not impress some of you delicate, precious creatures out there with your tiny feet and non-monstrous legs and arms. But my Sasquatch-esque extremities usually command more prodigious yardages.<br />
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I want pictures! Soon! It unexpectedly rained today, so my resident photographer went out to get groceries. The dress is considerably shorter on me than it is on Headless June, so it will look a bit different. I don't have proper undergarments yet for this era, though I do have a pair of busked c. 1820-1840 mock-up stays I've made for the Flora and Fauna challenge. They were used for most of the fitting.<br />
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And that concludes this episode of Thread-Head Theatre. Except for the paperwork! Read on!<br />
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<b><i>Attack of the Facts:</i></b><br />
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Challenge: </strong></em><strong style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">#6: Stripes!</strong></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Fabric: </b>3-ish yards of reproduction quilter's cotton. (Labeled "1830-1860," but I think it looks a lot like an early roller-print. Maybe that's wishful thinking.)</em></span></div>
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<strong style="font-size: 14px; font-style: inherit;"><em>Pattern:</em></strong><em style="font-size: 14px;"> Draped directly onto Headless June as a mock-up in Grandma's Sofa Floral Cotton and adjusted in situ.</em></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Year: </b>1810's. I've personally examined a very similar bib-front gown from the 1790's made of striped linen, and the primary <a href="http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_736.htm">inspiration dress</a> is described as "1800-1810."</em></span></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Notions: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">White cotton thread and 5 steel pins. (Pins are for closure.)</span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">How historically accurate is it? </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">I gave it an 8.5/10 on the HSF Facebook page. The fabric is not a great weight and the construction method is questionable. I made a lot of it up as I went along, consulting pictures for help. However, it's entirely hand-sewn and finished on the inside about a neatly as most of the originals I've seen.</span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hours to complete:</strong><span style="font-style: inherit;"> About 10. Most of the major time was spent on fitting the bodice.</span></em></div>
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<i><b>First worn:</b> Yesterday (March 23) to check the fit. I haven't worn it at all since I finished the hem, but I hope to remedy that soon! It rained all day today, ruining my planned photo op.</i></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Total cost: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">The fabric cost... $1.00 per yard. Yes. Even including the exponential cost of thread and pins, I'm in under $4.00.</span></em></div>
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BONUS: Obligatory cat!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx6gK59w-qlb4qfrGXgilheAt1elXXtZB6G8hVR6vyFT3wuBVZrchVPWbIdHJb8cUfgnXI_CKf6k9QhyphenhyphenYp1-Oyh76UtBirj9ALgH5adyGlKG0ONfnMY6E4tT5ipk5543CuDWy_AFzvj79f/s1600/032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx6gK59w-qlb4qfrGXgilheAt1elXXtZB6G8hVR6vyFT3wuBVZrchVPWbIdHJb8cUfgnXI_CKf6k9QhyphenhyphenYp1-Oyh76UtBirj9ALgH5adyGlKG0ONfnMY6E4tT5ipk5543CuDWy_AFzvj79f/s400/032.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-44737742013073386472013-03-18T14:13:00.000-04:002013-03-21T13:31:53.958-04:00I almost named this post "The Weekly Wedgie #1."No, really.<br />
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But then, I realized that even if the world needed another soul-wrenching weekly round-up of Blogger angst, it most certainly shouldn't been named in honor of a violent act of vigilante skivvy-yanking.<br />
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Then, there is the burden of irony in committing myself to weekly blog posts after a 3-week hiatus.<br />
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So! What's new? Well, for starters, there's this:<br />
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It's a petticoat! For the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Historical Sew Fortnightly "Peasants and Pioneers" challenge, a.k.a. "#5."</a> This petticoat is made like every other 18th century petticoat I've cobbled together, with the exception of hemming it to the correct length BEFORE attaching it to the waistband. This worked out pretty well and will hopefully mitigate *some* of the pathetic scrambling to shorten petticoats prior to wear each time I need one. I don't know about you guys, but every single petticoat I made in my first two years of attempting such things is waaaay too long. The worst of the lot actually touches my shoes. Yes. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguqkUj0P0tlv2yPE9e17aGb2oNzytRhM_KrOPnbfjEwmBa_tOC1ZK5DhK-WAHsgcn6Jo48o3C_rR7p8ddn6UKKGgt9QF4RNSRRHChEmaKZlf3Qx7jMat0irtacHiMBakO9sOBCBM7ZMJFT/s1600/004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguqkUj0P0tlv2yPE9e17aGb2oNzytRhM_KrOPnbfjEwmBa_tOC1ZK5DhK-WAHsgcn6Jo48o3C_rR7p8ddn6UKKGgt9QF4RNSRRHChEmaKZlf3Qx7jMat0irtacHiMBakO9sOBCBM7ZMJFT/s400/004.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The material (woven cotton flannel) is folded prior to pleating, and attached to the waistband with the interior edges left raw. The waistband is made of Dutch linen tape from <a href="http://www.wmboothdraper.com/">Wm. Booth Draper</a>, and cut a bit shorter than I usually do. I decided to go minimalist on both tape and yardage in the spirit of the challenge, so the petticoat is of humble width as well(basically 88 inches). </div>
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And here is a picture of our heroine, wearing the petticoat:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH9o4xj1eBHmC7-81dSez72MPbW-JTfIIoUe4BzDKLcwVzzf2Q1DMKIQEu1Ppzn_3-iw_BlIcg0fYaIya8US9i9Gd2VirnTj2T6_n303muXJuZb_GrgQVLXXJs6DLalVjiX4_uMY7DK7Ol/s1600/008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH9o4xj1eBHmC7-81dSez72MPbW-JTfIIoUe4BzDKLcwVzzf2Q1DMKIQEu1Ppzn_3-iw_BlIcg0fYaIya8US9i9Gd2VirnTj2T6_n303muXJuZb_GrgQVLXXJs6DLalVjiX4_uMY7DK7Ol/s400/008.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">What can I say? It's been a tiring few weeks.</span></div>
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Those of you following the Dreamstress's challenge may notice that this is about a week overdue. The worst of it is, I finished this petticoat over six weeks ago just to use up the last bit of this fabric! It's been done that long. Grr! I didn't intend to use it for any challenge, but life intervened, as it occasionally does. My original intention was to make a pair of leather stays for the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Peasants and Pioneers</a> challenge, based on this pair in the<a href="http://www.digitaltmuseum.se/things/livstycke/S-NM/NM.0001252?name=Livstycke&search_context=1&rows=72&sort_by=&js=1&page=1&count=1041&pos=44"> Nordiska Museet</a> that I've <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/07/extant-leather-stays-nordiska-museet.html">discussed before</a>. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqqFw63CeG7-WfW-aBduqV18yqRPxRTeCvaJ-UDES-75vzXW1qAKfYb9xjWRX3zgV2w8Y3X_HrTBWColCh79MCmcnPRz0Wr4XD9uAENWRbl2cke0S3oiO5Dj2J4dGUPz6Aca-j4NwL_ln5/s1600/Iron+Stays1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqqFw63CeG7-WfW-aBduqV18yqRPxRTeCvaJ-UDES-75vzXW1qAKfYb9xjWRX3zgV2w8Y3X_HrTBWColCh79MCmcnPRz0Wr4XD9uAENWRbl2cke0S3oiO5Dj2J4dGUPz6Aca-j4NwL_ln5/s400/Iron+Stays1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I have the leather, linen tape and even a scrap of antique Swedish linen to use for the lining. The big hold-up? Those damned "bars of iron" stuffing the front channels. I naively believed that I would be able to find a few little iron bars quickly and easily.</div>
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BWAAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!!</div>
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I have contacted virtually every blacksmith I can by phone within a day's drive of my current location. I found a guy about 45 minutes away who said he could easily do it, no problem! After three weeks of wasting time going back and forth, he finally produced steel bars. Steel is made of iron (in part), but it's not what was used in the original stays. All of this went down about a month ago, leaving me pretty much where I started. So that project has been put on the back burner again. Boo.</div>
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In other news:</div>
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* I gave another presentation on the Jehossee Exhibit and will be moving the lot to another museum in June. Jehossee lives on! </div>
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* Spring Break was last week. And not a moment too soon. I spent mine doing absolutely nothing except fighting a sinus infection and avoiding responsibility in all forms.</div>
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* I also made this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1L0sxkSwg-Vhz3WTD8zlZ3oFj0-bDwqA29zTTzJE7lGPrXHTtXI9JZrN_blppl5L9SIWbZQEmHDY91VrgrPuTePcojpHCoQzeL2QDHVTw73NH2p5rIJLDrIaGLO2TEdFyBX8XWvpudE8n/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1L0sxkSwg-Vhz3WTD8zlZ3oFj0-bDwqA29zTTzJE7lGPrXHTtXI9JZrN_blppl5L9SIWbZQEmHDY91VrgrPuTePcojpHCoQzeL2QDHVTw73NH2p5rIJLDrIaGLO2TEdFyBX8XWvpudE8n/s320/024.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Into this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpfixBcynEWWqJtdYQHCNcwWdTccXMC704UqUhaOabYM-dtmqcJD2ExLEFWgv6nq2fbvLnP3MRb1jegGNh-Z3zZsXf9TTEa-P84hXYs2bH3T03b6v59YMnbmUTvCOsRGZ_dY8pxIFJitCL/s1600/040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpfixBcynEWWqJtdYQHCNcwWdTccXMC704UqUhaOabYM-dtmqcJD2ExLEFWgv6nq2fbvLnP3MRb1jegGNh-Z3zZsXf9TTEa-P84hXYs2bH3T03b6v59YMnbmUTvCOsRGZ_dY8pxIFJitCL/s320/040.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Internal Hamdialogue: <i>At least it's not cupcakes.</i></span></div>
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The child on the right is "Hambone" (with a cousin), beloved offspring of my awesome friend "<a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/01/resolving-some-things-introspective.html">Boobs</a>." He had a birthday, as children are inclined to do, allowing me to indulge in my yearly tradition of staying up all night making a malformed edible tumor that vaguely resembles whatever he actually wanted. He then pretends to be pleased and I pretend that I am awake for the duration of the party. </div>
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I've got a pile of Regency stuff on the "to-do" list for most of the immediate upcoming HSF challenges, and with any luck, I'll actually finish some of it on time. Along with a blog post or two, if I can motivate myself. I've been in a bit of a funk, and I'm starting to get on my own nerves. Hopefully, that can act as its own motivation. In the meanwhile, here's the challenge break-down:</div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Challenge:</strong><span style="font-style: inherit;"> Peasants and Pioneers (#5)</span></em></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Fabric: </b>Woven striped cotton flannel from<a href="http://www.fabric.com/"> Fabric.c*m</a></em></span></div>
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<strong style="font-style: inherit;"><em>Pattern:</em></strong><em> None. </em></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Year: </b>It's intended to be worn as an under-petti, so I'm planning to wear it with wild anachronistic abandon. However, the cotton material, flat front panel and inverted pleats in back put it best at the late 3rd-early 4th quarter of the 18th century.</em></span></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Notions:</strong><span style="font-style: inherit;"> Linen tape.</span></em></div>
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<i><strong>How historically accurate is it? </strong>I don't know of any American woven cotton flannel petticoats from the 18th century, so it's not based purely upon an original. However, Florence Montgomery's "Textiles in America" includes swatches of many similar materials. Entirely hand sewn with accurate seam finishes, though the hem at the bottom is generous for a petticoat. Personal rating: 9 of 10.</i></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hours to complete: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">About 4. </span></em></div>
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<i><b>First worn: </b>This morning, over my head in the yard.</i></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Total cost: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Fabric was $4 a yard, tape was about $2 per yard... so about $16 total. (The length of the striped material was about 3 yards, and I used all but 18 inches of it.)</span></em></div>
Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-76407826589832030452013-02-24T02:47:00.000-05:002013-02-24T15:16:26.984-05:00The B. in the BonnetThe "B" will be me, of course.<br />
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I've gone and sewed some flotsam to a bonnet, an activity which required neither skill nor cunning. (And surprisingly little pre-meditation!) There's no need to beat a dead bonnet, so I shall endeavor to keep my punch-drunk, sleep deprived self on the modest side of the usual descriptive quagmire I write myself into!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Oooh. Did you read that last sentence? We're off to a terrible start. Best get this over with.</span><br />
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Some of you may remember the smug bit of rubbish I wrote last year about <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/05/pretty-in-pink-and-pathetic-list.html">turning 30 and buying a bonnet.</a> <span style="font-size: x-small;">(And for those of you who don't remember, congratulate yourself on your excellent judgement! Or follow the link.) </span>For the Fourth <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge</a> (embellish!) I decided that it was high time I decorated my lovely <a href="http://www.timelytresses.com/">Timely Tresses </a>acquisition.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw0quHuE2jpy-tU6EUVuqa5YybkNL5FQZtqyIT78g8-hjHxDdObzKzZDZ4fGg0iloXQ7hru1GE9wVUAhouqi-uOeUovbE_h5YhlFe9pvHaBCAz_Nuq_GmX04Qf4vA4ktregv1Prlboff2t/s1600/Snowshill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw0quHuE2jpy-tU6EUVuqa5YybkNL5FQZtqyIT78g8-hjHxDdObzKzZDZ4fGg0iloXQ7hru1GE9wVUAhouqi-uOeUovbE_h5YhlFe9pvHaBCAz_Nuq_GmX04Qf4vA4ktregv1Prlboff2t/s400/Snowshill.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Image courtesy of the <a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1349756">National Trust Collections</a>, who will <i>NOT</i> be made to photograph anything from the front, because that's just the sort of thing that got HRH Kate in trouble.</span></div>
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My inspiration was this c. 1840-1850 bonnet from the <a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1349756">National Trust Collections</a>. This particular bonnet was selected because the shape of my bonnet is nearly identical, and the time ascribed to the inspiration piece played wondrously into my devious little hands. You see, I wanted a bonnet I could wear at Civil War events without raising too much of a fuss, but something that could also conceivably be displayed with the Jehossee Exhibit if need be. A Time Lord of bonnets, if you will.<br />
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The middle of the nineteenth century is not a great time to decide you want a chapeau that will accommodate a 15 year time span. But a Thread-Head's gotta do what a Thread-Head's gotta do.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggaOru7QMbtlQlmZbOJ3bYL_hKSEvzWKqREdvuqNf6C8T4gU5s6sqer5DB6rXDbehIEfpQA26fc62xTI8l-joI2r0rOwNgLtIanj5dLwohzJZFSIOp0ZnRKyBfJlZj-iERtjopSjooTVhd/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggaOru7QMbtlQlmZbOJ3bYL_hKSEvzWKqREdvuqNf6C8T4gU5s6sqer5DB6rXDbehIEfpQA26fc62xTI8l-joI2r0rOwNgLtIanj5dLwohzJZFSIOp0ZnRKyBfJlZj-iERtjopSjooTVhd/s320/001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I started the embellishment process by rounding up a piece of scrap silk that was too small to do anything else with. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(It is actually too small for this project as well, but who needs to actually TIE their bonnet strings?? NAME ONE PERSON. <i>That's what I thought</i>.)</span> I cut the silk into roughly 4" strips with the pinking shears I never use, and began pleating the fabric inside the brim.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-bwzO0tm3umjuBnZ8xwqp3sLv37_MDPiYTrTfRHgq8ufULdz0o1gcESRhitKRG5pBXX6g0gdf-FRb_26C6yXu1QyddVVIsXGHZEe5ylEIQFJdLBo6iLiqPMBSZVHds5woxuSXzqNJ5GH/s1600/002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-bwzO0tm3umjuBnZ8xwqp3sLv37_MDPiYTrTfRHgq8ufULdz0o1gcESRhitKRG5pBXX6g0gdf-FRb_26C6yXu1QyddVVIsXGHZEe5ylEIQFJdLBo6iLiqPMBSZVHds5woxuSXzqNJ5GH/s320/002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The pleats are not precise. Frankly, if the surviving examples are any indication, bonnet trimming was a brutal, haphazard sport in the Antebellum era. (Some of them look as if the ribbon was applied with a cannon.) The silk I used is not remotely starchy or crisp, so I was forced to accept a certain... draped quality to the pleats.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvKmAjfzJFtDx-Mt4PKouHNIVyR73pwahEeJxcWEBVEkYBOeWphRPbypeEApYy1vkRzKz0g6b8gfWBHFfE7mBCTJbMn1HuW-MwCSvvXNQEfSxAx47K0nv1O9UICEAUwNukv5Yr_n0c6nu/s1600/003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzvKmAjfzJFtDx-Mt4PKouHNIVyR73pwahEeJxcWEBVEkYBOeWphRPbypeEApYy1vkRzKz0g6b8gfWBHFfE7mBCTJbMn1HuW-MwCSvvXNQEfSxAx47K0nv1O9UICEAUwNukv5Yr_n0c6nu/s320/003.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I used pretty much every needle I own at some point in this process. It was ridiculous. I started with my weapon of choice, a #12. That was tough going, so I ended up with the beloved vintage darning needle. That was a bust too, which ultimately led me down the rabbit-hole to a needle that I have no other earthly use for: a book-binding needle. Blunt, solid, short and possessing an eye commodious enough to house a family of four, it was the last thing that I thought would work. (Hence, why I tried it last.) But it was great! The blunt tip spread the fibers of the straw rather than stabbing through them, and the large eye protected the thread from the ravages of the straw. Who knew?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTyUkqiqFEUQTT1vqcrr2tQmgUinzNmfyjUPdMAwDMiONsKjHmwl-g0ddrnUOxxvT-6i38VfNU4jcSXm-NZ9uC_rdou58j-s5x8J-NYKb7fOTTUk10LgokzamVuACStrnOw6-Ql9f2iyXZ/s1600/005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTyUkqiqFEUQTT1vqcrr2tQmgUinzNmfyjUPdMAwDMiONsKjHmwl-g0ddrnUOxxvT-6i38VfNU4jcSXm-NZ9uC_rdou58j-s5x8J-NYKb7fOTTUk10LgokzamVuACStrnOw6-Ql9f2iyXZ/s320/005.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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My bavolet is precariously created from the very last scraps of 4" silk that I'd cut. The chain-stitch across the bottom is H.U.G.E.... but so is the design on the original. Historical relevance for the win! </div>
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Regrettably, my photo documentary ends here abruptly. After attaching the bavolet, I ran another row of stitches across the front frill of silk, roughly 1.25" from the pinked edge. It was the only solution I saw to a dreadful case of Flaccid Silk-itis. (When the bonnet was on, I looked like I had upholstered Zooey Deschanel bangs.) Then, in the manner of the Romans, I threw crap all over the bonnet until it could take no more. When at last it was full, I threw even <i>more</i> crap at it. Then I sewed the crap to the other crap. </div>
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I've never felt more alive.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjuO4O6reuMOpIZEaLzQ1nsp_Nu9_wvgHW2JHCV7IOHq8GZT5U2tmIcHi6Al4qBQyPDymNacatvoHyOlR5fSq_d0g7iWD6CIE6IAftM2NHmbUJh-BH3igAk0LlV1ytEuVYoWwu7iAHOmH/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqjuO4O6reuMOpIZEaLzQ1nsp_Nu9_wvgHW2JHCV7IOHq8GZT5U2tmIcHi6Al4qBQyPDymNacatvoHyOlR5fSq_d0g7iWD6CIE6IAftM2NHmbUJh-BH3igAk0LlV1ytEuVYoWwu7iAHOmH/s640/024.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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I then dragged it to the Archives and stuck it in a display case as part of the Jehossee diplay. Since it's living in 1850 at the moment, I tried to play up the horizontal look of things rather than the vertical. That said, I failed to get a single decent picture of the bonnet on a human head post-production. The stuffed head above does a lovely job of supporting it, but cannot provide the proper foundation of 1850's hair.<br />
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These pictures were taken after the bonnet was put on display and they were all taken from the outside of the case. Brilliant, yes, I know. *Sigh.* Why must I be merely beautiful instead of organized?<br />
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In addition to the saffron silk, I used cotton embroidery floss, felt pussy willows, wax blueberries, and some lovely blue plaid ribbon. The plaid ribbon was culled from the $1.00 bin at Micheal's (our local branch of a semi-national craft chain). It is <i>not</i> a natural fiber ribbon, but desperation won the day. Plus, I really love the ribbon.<br />
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And Huzzah! Blammo! Bonnet!<br />
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hats Facts:</strong></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Challenge: </strong></em><strong style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">#4: Embellish!</strong></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Fabric:</b> A 15" by 30" piece of saffron colored silk.</em></span></div>
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<strong style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, '\'Times New Roman\'', Times, serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: inherit;"><em>Pattern:</em></strong><em><span style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman, Times', serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px;"> Are there patterns for things like this?! None used. Images of extant bonnets were consulted.</span></span></em><br />
<em style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, '\'Times New Roman\'', Times, serif; font-size: 14px;"><b><br /></b></em><em style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, '\'Times New Roman\'', Times, serif; font-size: 14px;"><b>Year: </b>1850-1865. (But really, I'll take any combination of those years. Right now we're going for 1850-1855.)</em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Notions: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Yes! This was the Big Show for notions. I used: </span></em></div>
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<em><span style="font-style: inherit;">3 kinds of thread! (cotton embroidery floss plus yellow and brown cotton quilting thread.)</span></em></div>
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<em><span style="font-style: inherit;">Ribbon!</span></em></div>
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<em><span style="font-style: inherit;">Wax blueberries!</span></em></div>
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<em><span style="font-style: inherit;">Felt pussy willows!</span></em></div>
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<em><span style="font-style: inherit;">Pinking shears! (They deserved a second mention.)</span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, '\'Times New Roman\'', Times, serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: inherit; line-height: 21px;">How historically accurate is it? </strong><span style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, \Times New Roman\, Times, serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; font-style: inherit; line-height: 21px;">With the exception of the VERY inaccurate blue plaid ribbon, </span><span style="font-size: 14.399999618530273px; line-height: 21px;">everything</span><span style="font-size: 14px; font-style: inherit; line-height: 21px;"> else used is at least plausible. When I find appropriate replacement ribbon for the blue plaid, it can be changed out. I'm giving this one a 9 of 10.</span></span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hours to complete:</strong><span style="font-style: inherit;"> 6ish. </span></em></div>
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<i><b>First worn:</b> I had it on several times after it was finished, just for fun. It has not been worn with historical intent at all, though it is currently on display with Antebellum clothing. Did we ever decide if that counted?</i></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Total cost: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">The bonnet was an initial investment of $85, I think. I purchased the blueberries and pussy willows on sale over the course of the past year. I wouldn't have paid more than $3.00 per pick, so the lot comes to $6.00. Blue plaid ribbon was $1.00. Everything else was stash stuff. Roughly $100, if you count the shipping on the bonnet when I bought it.</span></em></div>
Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-2435123475231788592013-02-20T01:23:00.000-05:002013-02-20T01:23:38.983-05:00New shoes? You choose!IT'S SHOE TIME!<br />
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<a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/">American Duchess's</a> most recent creation i<span style="font-family: inherit;">s the</span> <i><span style="font-family: Georgia, Times New Roman, serif;">Gibson</span></i>, a lovely little gem of a shoe with tons of style and a gorgeous design!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiLtiQu8E3PEfGyZMWlxbZdFuvet3isnatqIBtuIOgzNGaI1sI2rB-e0R-0sLaVqieRY7_t4l7ItVSUivM466wImbcWcjDMQ40Z4M2TyvJCv6cGl32Ghk8-PlEhjCAsSShURfFafa0XVk1/s1600/gibson-finals-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiLtiQu8E3PEfGyZMWlxbZdFuvet3isnatqIBtuIOgzNGaI1sI2rB-e0R-0sLaVqieRY7_t4l7ItVSUivM466wImbcWcjDMQ40Z4M2TyvJCv6cGl32Ghk8-PlEhjCAsSShURfFafa0XVk1/s640/gibson-finals-3.jpg" width="416" /></a></div>
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What I like:</div>
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* The fantastic open-work detail at the sides. (Like petals, but with a little more sass.)</div>
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* That classic American Duchess heel! </div>
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* The elegant poise of the silhouette, tempered with a fierce little spirit of purpose. This is an impatient shoe... it's ready to take on the new century.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyTcrchBPqmnLeM1_pXDXE8LT8mYOYyP9968kdrvgHrwqHsRkKiAbFaVqIpMZO3T5JgFl726ioSug-xjdXy2kAG7GukUEyUQVP7xK5ir8XZ07O3SLLj18TxHRibWgX-szDJV_KneuSjqNM/s1600/original+gibbers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyTcrchBPqmnLeM1_pXDXE8LT8mYOYyP9968kdrvgHrwqHsRkKiAbFaVqIpMZO3T5JgFl726ioSug-xjdXy2kAG7GukUEyUQVP7xK5ir8XZ07O3SLLj18TxHRibWgX-szDJV_KneuSjqNM/s400/original+gibbers.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The progenitrix of the Gibson, in all her mouldering glory.</span></div>
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What I <i>love</i>:<br />
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* The Gibson will be available in THREE colors! I think that is an American Duchess first on a pre-release. The butterscotch is my absolute favorite.<br />
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* The history. Like last year's <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots/astoria-womens-edwardian-shoe">Astoria</a>, the Gibson is based directly upon an original shoe. Unlike the Astoria, Lauren owns the prototype shoe for the Gibson. I think that is why (in my opinion) this is her most dead-on perfect reproduction to date.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjas8LbSaAKjpr0OlxfFKHDG0dK3oLG-T0RyD_74ow8E7KJJ5jQ6aBoH7XRPDQ9npGgPlfjHn54N-yJJO7Gb2VAXAOEeSYLhl6nQkyD5_HYelKmjh9AZ6zHGXInpM0e27ebXglEptc1clcw/s1600/Gibs-pre-order-poster-575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjas8LbSaAKjpr0OlxfFKHDG0dK3oLG-T0RyD_74ow8E7KJJ5jQ6aBoH7XRPDQ9npGgPlfjHn54N-yJJO7Gb2VAXAOEeSYLhl6nQkyD5_HYelKmjh9AZ6zHGXInpM0e27ebXglEptc1clcw/s640/Gibs-pre-order-poster-575.jpg" width="432" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Did I mention the posters for this release are incredibly cute? Because they are incredibly cute. </span></div>
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Pre-orders are now up and open on the <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots/gibson-womens-edwardian-shoe-tan-brown">American Duchess</a> website! All three styles require a minimum order of 50 pieces before the production can be guaranteed, so we need to rally the troops.<br />
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Because it is absolutely necessary for my mental health that I get a pair of the butterscotch.<br />
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<i>No pressure. </i>Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-32338481413560383212013-02-14T02:25:00.000-05:002013-02-14T02:25:31.583-05:00WTF: RegencyL'amour, L'amour!<br />
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Some say that only the French can truly understand <i>l'art de la <span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Romance</span></i>. I disagree. In honor of Valentine's Day, I present a very English fashion plate as my... "special" valentine to all of you.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPQ2JMy7zV617_wDpf9u7k4I8oYrzYQxYq6FJnqvyA2NQyNhcjrJ2uIx0KF4cYBF0AiyJXEybt0yFkBnspf8KpfXsRcggQorqVzX3jEUOEPfyxIuoKJDkxjn8_p2ILIIEq_A5DKP8YsJlC/s1600/pigs+in+a+blanket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPQ2JMy7zV617_wDpf9u7k4I8oYrzYQxYq6FJnqvyA2NQyNhcjrJ2uIx0KF4cYBF0AiyJXEybt0yFkBnspf8KpfXsRcggQorqVzX3jEUOEPfyxIuoKJDkxjn8_p2ILIIEq_A5DKP8YsJlC/s640/pigs+in+a+blanket.jpg" width="367" /></a></div>
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Rendered in the rapturous glowing pastels of a Summer sunset over the Thames is this gorgeous image from our friends at <i>La Belle Asfemblee.</i> And who but they could have captured the resplendent elegance of this lovely damsel in her new pink frock? Truly, an artist of the highest caliber was employed for this plate; an individual singularly in tune with both the wisdom of the Old Masters and the inspirational qualities of an opium pipe.<br />
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<i>Appreciate</i>, if you can, the emphasis on our Rosie's waist. A bedazzled belt? Absolutely! But open your mind... allow your inner eye to embrace the glory of her embellished skirt! <i>Savor</i> the immutable charm of a series of graduated trapezoids that vaguely resemble scabby dresser drawers. And what could be more romantic than thinking of a woman's scabby drawers?<br />
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<i>Consider</i>, if you are able, the divine mystery of a one-legged maiden; <i>Where</i> did her other foot go? <i>Why</i> is she wearing the wrong shoe on her one remaining foot? <i>How</i> has she come to have a slab of bacon upon her coiffure?<br />
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<i>Discern</i>, if you are so gifted, the veritable Gordian Knot of bosom she boasts! <i>Observe </i>the seemingly haphazard arrangement of flesh... is it so random after all? Of <i>course</i> not! A true artist sees immediately that she represents the divine Justitia, and her roving spencer weasels are the very scales of Justice. These are poignant remembrances of the imbalance we often face in matters of equity and fairness, as well as a startling reminder to never insert a wooden busk in your stays while intoxicated.<br />
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Happy Valentine's Day, folks!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">With all the love in the world to<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/51592109@N08/collections/72157624601520326/"> Nuranar</a>, who probably weeps every time she opens her Flickr album.</span>Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-63120193795142816242013-02-10T02:21:00.001-05:002013-02-10T02:29:12.733-05:00My Lovely Lady Rump.Just in time for the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #3</a>, I've produced this, a rump.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUY32Qil10wnhS5-SY2G4FqAXD2JVFb2FqH4iYYqjbwyV9yndtYgkvJn0t3NLVpJK44M1hPu3OQ4b022AmLvgbI1Lpd9qAffI7pPxLv7eIwVxzhsO1kbfi5L4S0RcbjgvEcN7AgIuKOtc/s1600/011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUY32Qil10wnhS5-SY2G4FqAXD2JVFb2FqH4iYYqjbwyV9yndtYgkvJn0t3NLVpJK44M1hPu3OQ4b022AmLvgbI1Lpd9qAffI7pPxLv7eIwVxzhsO1kbfi5L4S0RcbjgvEcN7AgIuKOtc/s400/011.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Majestic, no?<br />
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I didn't really think about making a rump for this challenge until I was trotting about in my super pretty gold gown last week and I realized that the shape and relative weight of my current rump wasn't quite getting it. My old rump (<i>oh, how I love those words...</i>) is made of the same pink sprigged cotton duck fabric, but tightly stuffed with rags and sawdust. At the time I made it, 10 pounds of rags and sawdust sounded like a GREAT idea because the hip pads I made four years ago (stuffed with a meager assemblage of bamboo and cotton fluffer-stuff) have slowly deflated like a popsicle in a frying pan. The old rump worked well, but it was <i>bloody heavy</i>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdpzX-1B1fAWlLuU2ywjtmiV2LXH9T-wCAREzcW_bVZmHTYXvQIqzuK2TbV8iLaXfpE5_OK86GZWQbaawJ5AvzVGEZOc6AyHJKyw8l9vyxExNa8YdyEkVQvMn46sPbNRIDbjCfVpvJTt2g/s1600/010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdpzX-1B1fAWlLuU2ywjtmiV2LXH9T-wCAREzcW_bVZmHTYXvQIqzuK2TbV8iLaXfpE5_OK86GZWQbaawJ5AvzVGEZOc6AyHJKyw8l9vyxExNa8YdyEkVQvMn46sPbNRIDbjCfVpvJTt2g/s320/010.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> The new rump by night. Oooooh, baby.</span></div>
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There comes a time in every woman's life that she questions the wisdom of appearing in public burdened with what feels like most of a corpse tied around her waist. So I needed a new, lighter rump. My mother had given me a wonderfully busted old chair a couple of years ago as punishment for being such a disappointment as a daughter. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(This is an assumption based on the relative hideousness of the chair. <i>Hi, Mom!!!</i>)</span> During a particularly misguided bout of craftiness, and largely inspired by the success of <a href="http://seamlynessish.blogspot.com/2012/01/reupholstery.html">RabidGlow</a>, I pulled the chair apart with the intention of re-upholstering it.* I used the discarded padding from the upper back of the chair to stuff this rump. I suspect it's some form of poly/wooly/cottony blend but I have no idea. Its lightweight, it was handy, and it has maintained its original shape for more years than I've been alive.<br />
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* <span style="font-size: x-small;">Yeah, freaking right</span>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJIenDgaPsXsOs1d9x3wl1UzvxtktTAzg2kz48WeyZSxpID431Ri3cuACGJv9hG6GR7LoaCxfqFNAf2PlzQJA0ZbmZwllt5ByVDfAleq4xcQCFZ4ESaRKAyedlOx4RlVw9olRgawgoXXMz/s1600/019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJIenDgaPsXsOs1d9x3wl1UzvxtktTAzg2kz48WeyZSxpID431Ri3cuACGJv9hG6GR7LoaCxfqFNAf2PlzQJA0ZbmZwllt5ByVDfAleq4xcQCFZ4ESaRKAyedlOx4RlVw9olRgawgoXXMz/s400/019.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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The shape was dictated by a non-specific idea I had about what I wanted it to <i>feel</i> like more than what I wanted it to <i>look</i> like. (I was very inspired by some of the images in the excellent article that was presented on <a href="http://demodecouture.com/2013/01/new-research-article-posted-18th-c-rumps/">Démodé</a> recently, too! Serendipitous timing.) This is a terrible way to do anything, but there you have it. Other than that, the fabric really had the final say in shape. I only had a small bit left of the cotton duck, and I wanted to make the biggest rump that I could. (Don't we all?)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE807pv9pSb-IJChAR4zeyfMBEk0jGpreO2fTkcW37yBsRvp5A2Mupp1-zYqBgPu4jH1NqQPYcMQPVs-GO_7H99YQ7vt_dCpjZGEiEKVSI2jFCmCN-4jdPE5eURlXlONh_m_Yh5FFnFxj5/s1600/022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE807pv9pSb-IJChAR4zeyfMBEk0jGpreO2fTkcW37yBsRvp5A2Mupp1-zYqBgPu4jH1NqQPYcMQPVs-GO_7H99YQ7vt_dCpjZGEiEKVSI2jFCmCN-4jdPE5eURlXlONh_m_Yh5FFnFxj5/s320/022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> Closing the deal. I have made So. Much. Stuff. out of this fabric. It has integrated itself into the two rumps, a pinner apron and the lining of a half-finished coat. I think this is officially the last of it, though.</span></div>
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The seams are all back-stitched for strength. A 30" length of cotton tape was used as a waist tie, threaded all the way through the rump. I quilted 4 channels through all of the finished layers for the characteristic "puffy shell" look seen in 18th century caricatures. That was ultimately the most time-consuming part because I initially thought that I could sew through 4" of puff with a 3/4" needle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjviluulvCxPBxLb6GVru44cRczdoefo8O3TiEBWgK1kenkUZsdMCnrVeDmU5eHre267q0ZScP3AkejJ49D6sZXwet5ArlCyo3vXIHcYG2bGoRTBrCpf_LqCOBx3IT5WJJ3TJeVuOPr5NLe/s1600/001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjviluulvCxPBxLb6GVru44cRczdoefo8O3TiEBWgK1kenkUZsdMCnrVeDmU5eHre267q0ZScP3AkejJ49D6sZXwet5ArlCyo3vXIHcYG2bGoRTBrCpf_LqCOBx3IT5WJJ3TJeVuOPr5NLe/s320/001.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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And we have rump! Rumpus Rumpus! The pink ribbon is not a permanent fixture. I didn't like how boxy the shape was when it was finished, so I tied the ribbons down tight to help round it up a bit. But then, I really liked it so I've decided to use some slightly less plastic-y ribbon on it when I find the right stuff.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGbE1Or1aXPJcKQcNyxVgKfqJGhkO3a6wSdM9yIw6bAtlNJ7B2MQ5MCm3WJxbHrvalfjp2dwA4hniO90QfcbS7zgjKn3bdjl35IqncZjfjUSDxgHCUSMebtow4lwahf6hGK3JEm8NmLApS/s1600/012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGbE1Or1aXPJcKQcNyxVgKfqJGhkO3a6wSdM9yIw6bAtlNJ7B2MQ5MCm3WJxbHrvalfjp2dwA4hniO90QfcbS7zgjKn3bdjl35IqncZjfjUSDxgHCUSMebtow4lwahf6hGK3JEm8NmLApS/s320/012.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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In complete defiance of my lifestyle, moral code, spiritual beliefs and genetic proclivities, I finished this thing well over a week early. I know, I know. Something must be wrong with me. I'm looking into it. It was a tender mercy though, because I needed it. I spent part of the past week putting the <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2011/11/lets-meet-girls.html">Jehossee</a> exhibit is back up at the university archives and I needed all the padding I could get for those blasted mannequins. Above, you see the rump already pressed into service to augment the abruptly interrupted charms of the mannequin I dubbed "<a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/03/jehossee-installation-part-one.html">Assless Boobs On A Stick</a>." (If you don't get it, follow the link. Unless you don't want to get it, in which case you are probably too classy to be reading this. Go you!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgMzQxfILuNug_JxGbJA6w9caxHP1nY8BzDCPw4sJ2DqcYSoD29GSa0RzllDE8XC9JbFD5Q1G8fqs17arwdMc4HiMFDSqqDgmCobrRLvQW0yyUijeaEIbGGMoVNAQxl065AO_v9VnJaps/s1600/047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBgMzQxfILuNug_JxGbJA6w9caxHP1nY8BzDCPw4sJ2DqcYSoD29GSa0RzllDE8XC9JbFD5Q1G8fqs17arwdMc4HiMFDSqqDgmCobrRLvQW0yyUijeaEIbGGMoVNAQxl065AO_v9VnJaps/s400/047.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Something new I'm trying. It looks like an 8th grade science project, though. Hmm.</span></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Dastardly, Deadly Dull Facts:</strong></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Challenge: </strong></em><strong style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">#3: </strong><span style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;"><b>Underneath It All</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Fabric:</b> My last little patch of yellow sprigged cotton duck.</em></span></div>
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<strong style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, '\'Times New Roman\'', Times, serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: inherit; line-height: 21px;"><em>Pattern:</em></strong><em><span style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, \Times New Roman\, Times, serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;"> None. I referenced a few illustrations and the truly awesome post</span></span><span style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, \Times New Roman\, Times, serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;"> that </span><span style="font-size: 14.399999618530273px; line-height: 21px;"><a href="http://demodecouture.com/2013/01/new-research-article-posted-18th-c-rumps/">Démodé</a></span><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;"> recently published.</span></span></em><br />
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<em style="color: #151515; font-family: Georgia, '\'Times New Roman\'', Times, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 21px;"><b>Year: </b>1780-ish is the intended use, but it's currently sitting nicely under an 1850 gown. It's a full-service rump.</em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Notions: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Yes! Finally! I used a 30" bit of cotton tape threaded all the way through it as a waistband. That is totally a notion. The ribbons count too, I suppose.</span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">How historically accurate is it? </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">What to say?</span><strong style="font-style: inherit;"> </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">It's a functional butt cushion. Accuracy wasn't as big of a concern here due to my desire to have something more practical than strictly accurate. However, it's sized and shaped similarly to several original rumps (as seen in illustrations). The stuffing is highly suspect, and I have no way of verifying the use of cotton duck for rumps. I'll give this one a 5 of 10 for those reasons.</span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hours to complete:</strong><span style="font-style: inherit;"> 3. It could be done in half that, but it took me ages to figure out to use a larger needle for the quilting.</span></em></div>
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<i><b>First worn:</b> About a week ago for fitting purposes. However, it has been proudly installed under a cotton dress and petticoat for several days, so technically it's in use now.</i></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Total cost: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Zippo Nano. And MAN does it feel good to use up these odds and ends!</span></em></div>
Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-50702378484046949342013-01-28T02:14:00.001-05:002013-01-28T02:15:27.762-05:00You Spin Me Round-Gown, Baby, Round-Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><span style="text-align: left;">Warning to folks who have real lives and can't be bothered with huge blog posts with too many pictures: You may wanna skip this one. Or take a Xanax and listen to some Yanni first. </span><i style="text-align: left;">You've been warned. </i></b></div>
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To recap, for the second <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge</a>, I decided to finish up an abandoned late 18th century round-gown. This gown from the Met is one of those dresses that just HAD to happen. It was inevitable. Like gaining weight on a cruise or making questionable midnight internet purchases during exam week. I've been happily gloating over the picture for a few years, uncertain of when I would ever make it. But then, fate intervened. My mother gave me about 4.5 yards of gold silk brocade* last year as a "thank you" for making her that epic<a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/07/jehossee-rides-again-part-three.html"> blue dress/jacket</a> combo. (I love being thanked with fabric.) By the time I got home with the brocade, I KNEW what I would be making with it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLzzoCOBFQA4_fB0h2QtqitsZyS6Bu_yPr5e7AOXdIfc4wh-q2tCMt3Ys-FJXfSICk_KrrwTgqYHKYx8MlmIA5NTwlBA9CYZZdkeDM06xIXujyrnTWCLZN7UZ7BRwolCkdCXq8GiwxuISK/s1600/green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLzzoCOBFQA4_fB0h2QtqitsZyS6Bu_yPr5e7AOXdIfc4wh-q2tCMt3Ys-FJXfSICk_KrrwTgqYHKYx8MlmIA5NTwlBA9CYZZdkeDM06xIXujyrnTWCLZN7UZ7BRwolCkdCXq8GiwxuISK/s400/green.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">What's up, you <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80001535?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=green+ensemble&when=A.D.+1600-1800&what=Silk&img=1">Incredible Hulk</a> of a Dress?</span></div>
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This dress was uncommonly well suited for the material I had. The green material from which the original gown is constructed was almost certainly salvaged from an earlier dress. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(I'm thinking 1740-1750ish, but feel free to weigh in!)</span> My gold fabric is very similar in size and scale of pattern, though the motifs are more organized than on the original green. The fabric would have been perfect for a 1750's Française (saque-back) gown, but I simply didn't have enough. Plus, I have absolutely no need for a pre-Revolutionary war wardrobe. <span style="font-size: x-small;">Not that practicality weighs heavily in my life choices, but, ya know...</span><br />
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Using my c. 1750's fabric for a later dress was the most logical thing to do and luckily, the lovely ladies of the latter 18th century felt the same way. American women had very restricted access to imported fabrics during the years of the Revolution. Many were driven by necessity as well as patriotism to refurbish their mother's and grandmother's gowns, rather than buy what imported goods were available. Aside from the fashionable set, the middlin' class had long been keen on re-purposing outmoded garments (purchased second-hand often times) to augment their own wardrobes.<br />
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In other words, using not-quite-enough 1750's gold silk brocade to make a 1775 dress is a great idea and everyone should do it. My minuscule yardage meant that every cut had to be perfect the first time, and that piecing was needed in places. Just like the original.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwOLHanOouvUkq8w79dMKpdd0JJ90BZcru2gTOcbuYgM-eisEJ75OYiToQjHXLPOYdufnVMRAtYUlNppAfUEdWZAuQyQUVMbW-EOXurj0GaNPjLv2u_VO6VeBgpsjEUXNmf93msSyn-mTZ/s1600/007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwOLHanOouvUkq8w79dMKpdd0JJ90BZcru2gTOcbuYgM-eisEJ75OYiToQjHXLPOYdufnVMRAtYUlNppAfUEdWZAuQyQUVMbW-EOXurj0GaNPjLv2u_VO6VeBgpsjEUXNmf93msSyn-mTZ/s320/007.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ZxYgSybT1Rgu4b4qrUA7FzOJFcLaoIA-A7tAaK8V8iHWVT0SCsxUd2m91peAMmXYNBMvuozew5lObmEZQMDOcfMzxM24j9RCUOQi4GONEOzobb_10lRRpWKtCYyh_yoNpy-dgMzxuHD0/s1600/003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ZxYgSybT1Rgu4b4qrUA7FzOJFcLaoIA-A7tAaK8V8iHWVT0SCsxUd2m91peAMmXYNBMvuozew5lObmEZQMDOcfMzxM24j9RCUOQi4GONEOzobb_10lRRpWKtCYyh_yoNpy-dgMzxuHD0/s320/003.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Construction was handled in much the same way as the <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/07/round-gown-that-wasnt-and-other-things.html">blue linen Anglaise</a> I made last year. The main difference in construction is that no pattern was used. I draped the individual shapes of the bodice by referencing photographs (and the Met zoom feature... mmm). Since I had NO extra fabric, I took particular care with the draping and fitting process. The brocade and lining were cut 3/8" larger than the mock-up and folded back-to-back, turned in 3/16", and closed using point a rabbatre sous le main. The same technique was used to attach each finished panel on the inside, while the outter edge of the panel-to-panel seam was closed with a quasi-blind stitch.</div>
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It's everyone's favorite mock-up fabric!! I used the largest remaining bit for the sleeve mock up, which went shockingly fast after I quit trying to recreate the seam lines of the original. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(Omitted here is the week of my life that I lost trying to draft the original sleeve. Damn you, 2-part sleeve...)</span> This sleeve is an all-in-one design with a nip at the elbow to create the late 1770's "cupped" shape. It's very similar to the overall look of at least one of the Janet Arnold sleeve patterns, though I did not refer to the divine Mz. A at all for this project. </div>
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The lining method was the same that I used for the, picked up from <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2011/05/draping-sort-of-sacque-part-seven.html">Katherine's</a> flawless tutorial. Green cotton plaid "homespun" from the killing fields of the H*bby L*bby fabric department formed the lining. (Another leftover from the Jehossee project.)<br />
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Attaching sleeves: The bottom of the sleeve is sewn to the bodice and high back of the dress and then pleated at top to fit my arm. A band of fabric covers this (and many other sins), and is stitched to the pleats after fit is checked. </div>
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Stabba stabba! A needle for every job. I used my super-deadly darning needle to back-stitch the linen tape to the pleated skirt fabric...<br />
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...But relied on a #12 gold-eye for the majority of the seams.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Note to self: Need to buy more linen tape. </span></div>
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Engineering is always sexy. The Met round-gown skirt is overlapped back-over-front. I wanted mine to close the same way, but it was a learning curve. I purposefully close ALL of my 18th century petticoats with the front overlapping the back. The addition of the bodice complicated things for my feeble brain. (I'm a simple creature.) As it turns out, once you're dressing yourself, it makes perfect sense.<br />
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Two views of the back. The fabric didn't have a true mirror-image selvedge, so I had to fake the matched center back panel by using two complimentary sides of the repeating pattern. (I hope to get some full-length shots this week or next, so the pattern of the dress will be easier to see. ) Since the Met gown has a very odd, not-quite-symmetrical pleated skirt, I was free to be as lazy as I wanted with my pleats. All told, they really aren't as rough as they look in these pics. (I didn't arrange the skirt very carefully on Headless June.)</div>
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NONE of my undergarments are of an equable quality to the dress. (Also, pardon the ridge from my stays. I used the lower, later-style front closing stays under the dress in the picture. Poor choice.) Even though this is truly meant to be a during-the-war "make do" kind of gown, it's way more luxurious that my shift and stays are meant to interact with. No a super-big deal, but it is something that I keep in mind.<br />
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And we close with the ONLY full-length shot that I got today. My poor neighbors.<br />
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Facts! And then MORE facts!</strong></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Challenge: </strong></em><strong style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">#2: </strong><span style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;"><b>Unfinished Object (UFO)</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Fabric: </b>Completely amazing remnant of silk brocade by way of my mom. The lining is a mix of vintage cotton print (gift) and stash remnant homespun. (A special shout-out to the 80's print faux-linen of insanity that somehow managed to get involved in the sleeve making process. )</em></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: small; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">*</span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: x-small; line-height: normal; text-align: left;">I had some doubts about the content of the material originally. (I thought it was a cotton/silk blend) Apparently, it's 100% silk. </span></div>
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<strong style="font-style: inherit;"><em>Pattern:</em></strong><em> Draped directly onto Headless June as a pink polyester mock-up and cut after a lot of feverish prayer. </em></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Year: </b>1775-80. Based on a dress from the Metropolitan Museum of Art from 1775 and intentionally created to look refurbished from an earlier garment.</em></span></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Notions: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Yet again, I have no notions. Unless you count the straight pins to close the front? Yes? </span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">How historically accurate is it? </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">As close as I could get. The construction techniques are consistent with extant garments and the materials used were available at the time. The material is probably heavier than most brocade used for garments, though possible acceptable as-is. The lining material is the most questionable, but it is at least historically possible. I rate this an 8/10 on accuracy. </span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hours to complete:</strong><span style="font-style: inherit;"> 50+</span></em></div>
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<i><b>First worn:</b> January 27 for pictures on the lawn for the delight and horror of passers-by.</i></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Total cost: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Special trip to Hanc*ck Fabrics to get thread: $6.00. But I needed the thread anyway... so basically free.</span></em></div>
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<br />Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-1108906109972016512013-01-25T18:00:00.000-05:002013-01-29T04:05:28.941-05:00We interrupt our regularly scheduled programming...<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Welcome, visitors, to 1995!! Sign my guestbook!!</span></i></div>
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Sorry, folks! The latest "WTF: Regency" post is currently under construction. (Hence, the hipster gif.) I was notified by a reader (thanks, Isabella!) that the image I used was from the Special Collections of the <a href="http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=2">University of Washington.</a> After reading their "terms of use," I felt that the blog post may not have qualified. I've sent an email through the proper channels and I'm waiting to hear back. If I can use the image, the post will go back up with the proper link. If not, then it shall marinate for all eternity in the special hell of my "Unpublished Draft" box.<br />
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It's "snowing" in South Carolina today, which basically means that it's bloody cold and people think that it MAY snow somewhere, someday. If I regain the use of my fingers, I'll dig up another WTF to fill the gaping void in our hearts.<br />
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<i>UPDATED 1/29/13:</i><br />
The original post is back up, with proper credit. In theory, I should remove this post, but I can't bring myself to kill the digger gif.<br />
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Dig on, young man. Dig on.<br />
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Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-72720906093200906052013-01-22T22:36:00.000-05:002013-01-29T04:02:04.901-05:00WTF: Regency (Now with 20% less copyright infringement!)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: start;">It is a little-known point of 1807 etiquette that, when exposed to the naughty bits of another woman on the streets of London, propriety demanded that you immediately renounce all natural pigmentation as well as your left arm:</span>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i> </i>Fashion plate courtesy of the <a href="http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=2">University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections, COS006</a></span></div>
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<i>"Wihemina, PLEASE. Just tell me if it looks malignant. That's all I'm asking."</i></div>
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Her look of righteous indignation only adds to the unmistakable allure of our pallid amputee, along with the intriguing addition of a spangled bell-pull at the décolletage. <span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>(Ring for service!)</i></span> Not to be outdone, the glories of Lady Violet's feminine apparatus have been further embellished by a coat trimmed in an exuberant halo of spotted Polish rat-pelt and the aggressive use of turban tassels.<br />
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One does wonder at her decision to divert focus, but perhaps they match the tassels in the front.<br />
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<i>UPDATE 1/29/13:</i><br />
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This post was originally published without a source or credit. Luckily, one of the much more proficient historical fashion enthusiasts among us let me know that this is from the <a href="http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/costumehist&CISOPTR=2">University of Washington.</a> I contacted them regarding the use of this image and I'm happy to say that THEY HATH SPOKEN! (And quickly, at that.) With the proper tagline and a manic gleam of self-congratulatory compliance in my eye, I am at liberty to cull their vast and awesome collections for many, many more abuses of the WTF Fashion Plate variety in the future.<br />
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Now, you may all return to your erotic fantasies of the cast of Downton Abbey.<br />
<br />Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-51268912247052706752013-01-18T22:37:00.000-05:002013-01-18T22:37:06.070-05:00Fortnightly the Second, being that which is Unfinished.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm not organized or motivated enough to offer a succinct list of my intended projects for the next few stages of the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge</a>, but here's the plan for HSF #2:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-ZuPWA-1-SK_XRu647y8ke3chJhti8L3cY5gja-IPHgPgkFqRe6oCmavYTuanv2ybuMrjHprTJKsqSR6tmlLsr08RJYejbnuvIM38cW-fOVcgjIwn7ATDw_S64sWIT7hxfVOuxZ2RT2q/s1600/green.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-ZuPWA-1-SK_XRu647y8ke3chJhti8L3cY5gja-IPHgPgkFqRe6oCmavYTuanv2ybuMrjHprTJKsqSR6tmlLsr08RJYejbnuvIM38cW-fOVcgjIwn7ATDw_S64sWIT7hxfVOuxZ2RT2q/s640/green.jpg" width="513" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;"> Courtesy of </span><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80001535?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=green+ensemble&when=A.D.+1600-1800&what=Silk&img=1" style="text-align: left;">the Met, of course.</a></div>
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And here's where things are at the moment:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpNspnbAY63ehuGRh0mpV_Id2htx2ySkDrW_tlT_NOJmdNnh2wwRVq77azNWk6WiKOgKqBoOdrhxLsnFEfi44w-VkxnryyO5vaYzNl0TcsNxwK4w-cTmh_RFo8oTmIzSDg5yMeUwIC_34/s1600/013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpNspnbAY63ehuGRh0mpV_Id2htx2ySkDrW_tlT_NOJmdNnh2wwRVq77azNWk6WiKOgKqBoOdrhxLsnFEfi44w-VkxnryyO5vaYzNl0TcsNxwK4w-cTmh_RFo8oTmIzSDg5yMeUwIC_34/s400/013.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Consider the irony of the "recycle" emblem on the box. Thank you.</span></div>
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The retro-looking brown stuff is to be the lining. I am using it as the lining because it's convenient and free, and because it bears more than a passing resemblance to some of the astonishingly modern-looking cotton prints from the<a href="http://www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk/"> London Foundling Hospital</a> billet books. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZVaUQ3owOSyiU-nuJ51BDWr7L7AtDs8EailgHdBkgNb3GJ4u3mN4UUTrrkUBMMPqBynaFH_RMWHOTBL9nSP3eybWlblsap7QaAC-ebmd4IKMluEIzGq-SoWNz5yBPpHmaTI3Tq94DE2kC/s1600/LFH1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZVaUQ3owOSyiU-nuJ51BDWr7L7AtDs8EailgHdBkgNb3GJ4u3mN4UUTrrkUBMMPqBynaFH_RMWHOTBL9nSP3eybWlblsap7QaAC-ebmd4IKMluEIzGq-SoWNz5yBPpHmaTI3Tq94DE2kC/s400/LFH1.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">A textile from one of the London Foundling Hospital billet books, entry 6671. From <a href="http://www.exhibitingfashion.com/post/3679792095">Exhibiting Fashion.</a></span></div>
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The authenticity of the print doesn't worry me much because the fiber content of the exterior fabric is far more uncertain. (Impeccable reasoning! I haz it!) The gold brocade contains nothing truly synthetic, as best as I can tell, but it is probably a cotton/silk or rayon/cotton blend. Furthermore, I'm not sure if a fabric so heavy would have been used for a dress. (For those of you playing the drinking game at home, this dress was actually started BEFORE <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2012/07/round-gown-that-wasnt-and-other-things.html">this happened</a>.)<span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></div>
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With that encouraging denouncement of my costuming integrity, onward and upward we go! </div>
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Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-35751121807798217682013-01-13T18:59:00.002-05:002013-01-13T18:59:55.473-05:00Pilgrim'f Progreff<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After reading the requirements for the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Dreamstress's Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #1,</a> I had no doubt that I would do something from 1813. My impecible reasoning: I really want to build at least a rudimentary Regency wardrobe, I have a few appropriate linens, cottons and wools in the stash and the era offers the opportunity to practice a lot of the hand-sewing techniques that I enjoy AND sorely need to practice. </div>
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So for all these reasons and more, I somehow ended up making a circa 1613 wool jacket. Let's begin, shall we?</div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplAeIEvQd4ZpZ5GK-wD6JGjMxKDfi9xFLJK2IrKoWFd1xe_M2rZdOx7DTCJ7h5GR1fuIzSw89MO0TcUORgJ1XAs6p2RhBVh89UqP5eG_7lyi8yK9cN-gcKwWHGXTpq8RsXrra3c30tmWX/s1600/METjacket-DP159814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiplAeIEvQd4ZpZ5GK-wD6JGjMxKDfi9xFLJK2IrKoWFd1xe_M2rZdOx7DTCJ7h5GR1fuIzSw89MO0TcUORgJ1XAs6p2RhBVh89UqP5eG_7lyi8yK9cN-gcKwWHGXTpq8RsXrra3c30tmWX/s400/METjacket-DP159814.jpg" width="366" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80002278?img=2">Met</a>, c. 1616</div>
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As <a href="http://threadheaded.blogspot.com/2013/01/just-try-to-look-at-this-fabric-without.html">previously discussed</a>, I draped the jacket directly onto Headless June. I used two extant jackets for inspiration, particularly the one above at the Met. (Zoom feature! Yesssss!) The zoom feature was awesome for identifying seam lines and contours, but ultimately I had to guess at some features. (The Met jacket appears to have been altered extensively after creation, or was made from a much larger original garment. The embroidery simply disappears into several seams and some of the insects are not oriented in the same direction as others.) <span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of you may recognize the embroidered motifs from another jacket. While this example bears a strong resemblance to the <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O69443/margaret-layton-formerly-laton-painting-gheeraerts-marcus-the/">Margaret Layton jacket</a> at the V&A, the overall shape is more squat and short-waisted and the embroidery is "chunkier" in comparison.</span><br />
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There are many pictures of the jacket and material available on the Met's site, but none of the images offer a clear view of the sides, and there are no interior shots.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH7MKPUF0mfEU4MRiackSMyvZVdB5UgzDeTFZGLE0tvAr1kUT8_aDgDziQsCl-DBGPAyv8yhyphenhyphenCpKzxalxN1zjPM6rqZaHRb8YR5WaXEvOtD3eLyDNYCOXmw-zGq-c3KorEdbCA97PjBiaK/s1600/V&Ajacket-141580.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH7MKPUF0mfEU4MRiackSMyvZVdB5UgzDeTFZGLE0tvAr1kUT8_aDgDziQsCl-DBGPAyv8yhyphenhyphenCpKzxalxN1zjPM6rqZaHRb8YR5WaXEvOtD3eLyDNYCOXmw-zGq-c3KorEdbCA97PjBiaK/s400/V&Ajacket-141580.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/141580/womans-close-fitting-long-sleeved-jacket-back-view-17th-century">Museum of London</a>, 1610-1620</div>
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Similarly, the Museum of London offers a nice view of the front and back of their 17th century embroidered jacket, but no interior or sides shots. (And no zoom either. Get it together, Brits!) However, between the two images, I was able to cobble together a general plan.</div>
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I wanted to make a jacket that would not have been out of place on an American woman in the early half of the 17th century. Based on Plimoth Plantation colonial wills and behests and court records from my lovely set of <i>Proprietary Records of South Carolina: 1675-1695</i>, I decided to go with something simple, sturdy and woolen. </div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1d9InMKJIYdRiPsSGY97UAa3Jnu3rLCUlKMKNfV1_yO05iNzs7y2I_BejTIoiI1o57SiIfEQOkhFQ8ygQ_XCWVz3MFxXcHNNnFYhzUQWxl5g4crgZ7dve-tLPTItAQhz7BlbCDqeZOnYb/s1600/003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1d9InMKJIYdRiPsSGY97UAa3Jnu3rLCUlKMKNfV1_yO05iNzs7y2I_BejTIoiI1o57SiIfEQOkhFQ8ygQ_XCWVz3MFxXcHNNnFYhzUQWxl5g4crgZ7dve-tLPTItAQhz7BlbCDqeZOnYb/s400/003.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I got lucky in the stash after a few days of wailing and grousing. (I have some nice green wool, but it's a little light and I wanted to use it for an 18th century gown; then there's the awesome fawn-colored wool melton that I am saving that for something amazing that doesn't even exist yet in theory or practice... etc. etc.) I had a large-ish piece of something wool-like and gray that was given to me several years ago. It has endured numerous conflicting burn tests and hasn't been used yet for the very reason that I had no clue what was in it. (It doesn't melt, leaves soft ash, but it smells hideous.)<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">But I'm like, the most ignorant burn-test operator EVER. I almost always set my own hair on fire and generally end up wasting several inches of fabric by cutting and re-cutting samples to "see what it looks like burning outside!" or something.</span><br />
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And then! A stroke of luck! I noticed that the moths got into it! With wild abandon. Epic savagery. But that pretty much sealed the deal on content. Whatever it is, it's edible. So on we go!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMd8S6yTrItAYgE1yCWLT_NOCMqAmVRhXH8CxYX8lkQLM-1T1gmybPpkAmCLV8H5LVUFuOQfafLC37yMuzHVMNkqLrMB3s0fgqeAwVtj7DhRzG8sw-Pw1nM4UtsMVScAcxkekpGBlRbk-/s1600/009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMd8S6yTrItAYgE1yCWLT_NOCMqAmVRhXH8CxYX8lkQLM-1T1gmybPpkAmCLV8H5LVUFuOQfafLC37yMuzHVMNkqLrMB3s0fgqeAwVtj7DhRzG8sw-Pw1nM4UtsMVScAcxkekpGBlRbk-/s400/009.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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After a few modifications (lengthened the sleeves, added what my resident critic calls "the little shoulder porches" after liking them on the Museum of London jacket, cut about 6 inches of length off), I cut into the gray wool and linen lining and sewed it up in a bizarre hybrid of 19th and 18th century techniques. I sewed the lining (except sleeves) and outer layers together separately, then joined them at the armscye. The sleeves are cut in two parts with a curve at the elbow and prepared long for a turn-back cuff.<br />
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-4brjwrQxmvLPsorR1XIeici_6vjQ0KIfGkp2yApNPWzQIoN8-pudAMfAuadv_TLDtXQhIkdkMgm9SBGDOHqjqXxpT4zmYvMHWYzr-ekSVztJP2ZHGgxKZZ3hBw5uAQWH8tbkhorF9-Z/s1600/006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-4brjwrQxmvLPsorR1XIeici_6vjQ0KIfGkp2yApNPWzQIoN8-pudAMfAuadv_TLDtXQhIkdkMgm9SBGDOHqjqXxpT4zmYvMHWYzr-ekSVztJP2ZHGgxKZZ3hBw5uAQWH8tbkhorF9-Z/s400/006.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Shoulder Porch installation.</div>
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The sleeves are lined in osnaburg (I had some left over from an early, failed child chemise from the Jehossee project) which would be appropriate for the 17th century, but in linen rather than cotton. This was an excellent stash-busting project overall. I used up most of the piece of gray wool, all of the last of my 7oz linen as well as the osnaburg. I added a facing of the wool to the inside of the cuff after turning it. I have no idea if that's appropriate, but it seemed similar to the way the embroidered cuffs were attached to both the Met and Margaret Layton jackets.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzGZHMYJU0XZkKVyd4bl4t_FHKE-LZ7eHtbXUe9icfQumTxTezw0Y8u4FhUZ-dPkiwSU8cbCjN5iWKKhNLHTyAflgn2-ddnFaGItYDnJE3Jl3uq-zjAKjA3RLTU-UY1Y9Td76gleNt2Hh/s1600/013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzGZHMYJU0XZkKVyd4bl4t_FHKE-LZ7eHtbXUe9icfQumTxTezw0Y8u4FhUZ-dPkiwSU8cbCjN5iWKKhNLHTyAflgn2-ddnFaGItYDnJE3Jl3uq-zjAKjA3RLTU-UY1Y9Td76gleNt2Hh/s400/013.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The lining is simply folded into the wool and attached with the lovely <i>point a rabbattre sous le main</i> stitch. Sturdy and invisible on both sides.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0kfhWyvWXXvuC3t7NRHPrxa8F_h_y3SvQKYraOHOfQTPf8fDPwO8MciMLydjmXhX67hhRLBY61Xs14MPZ6aZmaqcIgE1uV7EYiHETO7jItWQp8YoeAfGbLnyPw9bk3gFLl3VS9EosfxLP/s1600/022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0kfhWyvWXXvuC3t7NRHPrxa8F_h_y3SvQKYraOHOfQTPf8fDPwO8MciMLydjmXhX67hhRLBY61Xs14MPZ6aZmaqcIgE1uV7EYiHETO7jItWQp8YoeAfGbLnyPw9bk3gFLl3VS9EosfxLP/s400/022.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">The Met jacket has TOP CENTERED SHOULDER SEAMS. I know, right?! Like a woman's blazer that you could buy from the mall today. (Yet another reason I think it was modified at some point.) Most of the other surviving 17th century women's clothing that I found pictures of showed at least a suggestion of the angled back-shoulder seam we know and love from 18th-19th century bodice construction. So I split the difference. The shoulder seams are angled down from the top of the shoulder to the back of the armscye. It's not nearly as extreme as 18th century angles, but it hints at that method of construction.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhhzPa1yF4RaemvOLrZJwR49LBX2abkIqNSARR9frJC8J9IiWnsGKlgJL0Ns4X31LXHIHfEaJWEd7y0Wvv7y9Ps1b6wRbed_AobNbFRn45N5EY3kD6KFvrc2CkbdyOL50fboATwjK61YHU/s1600/024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhhzPa1yF4RaemvOLrZJwR49LBX2abkIqNSARR9frJC8J9IiWnsGKlgJL0Ns4X31LXHIHfEaJWEd7y0Wvv7y9Ps1b6wRbed_AobNbFRn45N5EY3kD6KFvrc2CkbdyOL50fboATwjK61YHU/s400/024.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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yaaay! 3:00 a.m. glamour shots!</div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRVC8b6CM_nv3SFI2H5GIUE4dx4xIOFcVC6KYK83Z-vQNBD1rnFHoF1_VEXyiLZN_rAJ1nuylKw7S_SxUrGF7Hb1lkM03u9cV8eCof5oxZNHfzPEeLhIEapvLMi5-CDTWloHs2nrCOVPjv/s1600/018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRVC8b6CM_nv3SFI2H5GIUE4dx4xIOFcVC6KYK83Z-vQNBD1rnFHoF1_VEXyiLZN_rAJ1nuylKw7S_SxUrGF7Hb1lkM03u9cV8eCof5oxZNHfzPEeLhIEapvLMi5-CDTWloHs2nrCOVPjv/s400/018.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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And this is where we ended up. (Moth holes add texture and visual interest! Symmetry is for weirdos! Cat hair is historically accurate!) Pardon the anachronistic petticoats; the only cartridge-pleated skirt I own is in a decidedly non-historical "dancing rabbit" print. Now that it's "finished," the jacket needs... everything. Pinning is an acceptable method of closure, but I may add ties. I don't want to do anything as elaborate as the embroidery on the originals (Ha! Like it's a personal choice!) but I really want to be-dazzle it a little. It's painfully, excruciatingly bare. In retrospect, I wish I'd gone for the kicky quasi-box pleats like the Museum of London jacket boasts, rather than the cut-in-one angled skirt seams in the style of the Met jacket. It would have added some pizzazz without being "fancy."</div>
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But you know what? I kind of like it.</div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Facts! Gimme them Facts!</strong></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Challenge: </strong></em><strong style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">#1: <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/hsf-challenge-1bitriquadriquinsexseptioctononacentennial/" style="color: #c4a5b0;" target="_blank">Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/<wbr></wbr>Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial</a></strong><span style="font-size: 14px; text-align: left;"> (A.K.A. "Something Thirteen This Way Comes.")</span></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Fabric: </b>Mock-up from craptastic printed "linen" stash fabric; final from gray wool with linen and osnaburg lining. (Also stash.)</em></span></div>
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<strong style="font-style: inherit;"><em>Pattern:</em></strong><em> Draped directly onto Headless June as a mock-up. Revised after two fittings and cut.</em></div>
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<span style="font-style: inherit;"><em><b>Year: </b>1613 (ish)</em></span></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Notions: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Again, none unless you count the thread.</span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">How historically accurate is it? </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Umm... well, yeah. Not very. I have never examined any 17th century garment, so I am clueless with regard to specific seam finishes. Sewn with cotton thread (not typical of 17th century American clothing) and sleeves lined with cotton osnaburg. I had to fit it over a highly ghetto-rigged pair of 18th century stays and some assorted ballast to imitate the non-present skirts, so the silhouette is unproven over appropriate undergarments and petticoats.</span></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hours to complete:</strong><span style="font-style: inherit;"> 17</span></em></div>
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<i><b>First worn:</b> Not yet!</i></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Total cost: </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">Free!</span></em></div>
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Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-63927712008027678942013-01-09T23:02:00.000-05:002013-01-09T23:02:29.439-05:00Just TRY to look at this fabric without getting motion sicknessI think that it may be more fun to do the whole "<i>Oh! Look at this awesome thing I made while nobody was looking! It's completely finished and there is nothing wrong with it!</i>" thing for some people, but I enjoy humiliating myself at all levels, all the time. In that spirit, here's a progress report on Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge #1: <u>Something Thirteen This Way Comes</u>.**<br />
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**<span style="font-size: x-small;">not remotely the real challenge title.</span><br />
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I'm not going to say what I'm making. This is for two equally important reasons. One, I enjoy some element of surprise even with an in-progress report; and Two, I would like to retreat to a place of "Costumer's Plausible Deniability" if necessary. You know, in case this thing must be quickly and surreptitiously made into some <i>other</i> thing.<br />
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What you see here is my incredibly precise draping method. This requires sacrificial fabric (done and DONE!), a sharpie pen, a mouthful of differently sized straight-pins (so that no matter what, you're always dropping some of them onto the floor to step on), and a dress-form or sacrificial human. Since I'm all out of sacrificial humans this week, Headless June stepped in as the draper's assistant.<br />
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After referencing seam lines on my inspiration garment, I draped the back center panel and front with allowances to trim the bottom edge. The side panel was challenging due to a lack of firm visual evidence of one of the seam lines, but I think it's oriented properly at this point. The side panel was cut to fit in the negative area left after the front and back were established to my satisfaction. Areas where I felt the need to document critical seams are marked directly on the fabric.<br />
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Since I'm not using a pattern of any kind, and I've never made... one of these things... before, I'm relying on past draping successes and a few experiments. The sleeve is cut in two pieces, like the original. The seam lines should fall close to those on the inspiration garment and I made the general shape with the curve of my arm in mind. I took the sleeve in 3 times after I initially cut it out, and will likely do another trim after I get the fashion and lining fabric cut. (This exquisite material does not adequately convey the 2 or 3 thicknesses of material for the finished piece.)<br />
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A particularly critical juncture. The back seam, sleeve cap, sleeve head and armscye will share some real estate in the vicinity of the pink triangle.</div>
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So far, the sleeve is working. I will probably re-drape it in a heavier material before I get into the "real" fabric to see if it is still successful.<br />
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And there we have... it! A word on the fabric: this was among several boxes of material that were bequeathed to me by a friend's mother in anticipation of a move. She bought it at a thrift store in Florida in the (you guessed it) 1980's. Isn't it just amazing? 99.9% of my childhood wardrobe was made out of fabric like this. Add a side ponytail, an over-bite and couple pairs of coordinated socks and you get the picture.<br />
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Hopefully I'll have something more to post in a few days. Hopefully. Good luck to everyone who is doing the Challenge this week!</div>
Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6261676034084131707.post-77796873901699511712012-12-31T04:00:00.000-05:002013-01-01T23:34:20.806-05:00Oh, this is such a breathtakingly bad idea.So I've decided to throw in my lot with the over-achievers and join the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/">Dreamstress's Historical Sew Fortnightly</a> challenge. My reasons for doing so cannot be documented here because they simply do not make sense. Really, I have no idea why I'm doing this to myself. Grad school starts back in a week, I'm working full time, hilariously behind schedule on a documentation and restoration project and I have the attention span of a gnat on crack. Another project?? More deadlines?? SURE!!!<br />
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The first challenge (aptly dubbed #0) is for a "simple garment" of some sort. It can be an item that has been started but not finished, or a quickie project that is easy on the mind and body. In Thread-Headed style, I picked...<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">A square. Seen here as a trapezoid for comic effect. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">And yes, that is the wheel of a Rubbermaid potting bench oozing Christmas ribbon in my home. Don't judge me.</span></span></div>
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I've had a glorious case of the creeping crud these past two weeks and my energy level isn't quite up to wrangling any of the more labor-intensive projects that are stacked up around here, so the square won. (The incredibly precise, NASA-approved process I used for determining a perfectly square shape can be seen above.)</div>
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The "square" is actually a kerchief for my 18th century kit. I have a nice, semi-sheer white linen kerchief that is (hopefully) soon-to-be embroidered by a friend, but I wanted something on the humbler side. The brick red cotton woven shirting came up at <a href="http://www.fabric.com/">Fabric.c*m</a> a few months ago and I bought a yard for this specific purpose. The fabric was really lovely to work with and now I regret not buying more. The edge you see above isn't my stitchery. <span style="font-size: x-small;">(Those horrors to follow. Stay tuned!)</span> It's the fabric selvedge! Both sides had really tiny selvedges (less than 1/8" total) and the weave was tighter than I expected.<br />
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Ahh... the money shot. My crusty fingernails and janky pajama pants, for your viewing pleasure.</div>
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And we have kerchief! I'm happy with it overall. It's soft and sturdy, and feels very much like having a small but dignified table cloth draped around my neck. I look forward to trotting it out when next I find myself in stays.</div>
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Thus, we have concluded the first (and very possibly the last) installment of "Alison's Sewing Contest Theatre." Tune in next week for:</div>
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* Ludicrous New Year's resolutions and blatant whining!</div>
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* Additional whining!</div>
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* Possible pictures of a giant hole in the ground because my neighbors have been "experimenting" with a series of homemade sparkler bombs all day. Yaaayyy, rural Southern America!</div>
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Edit: 1/1/13</div>
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The <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/">Dreamstress</a> posted these "Just the facts" bullet points for the challenge participants. I didn't notice them until last night, so here we go!</div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;"><br /></strong></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Just the facts, Ma’am:</strong></em></div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">The Challenge: </strong></em>#0 – <strong style="font-style: inherit;">Starting Simple</strong></div>
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<strong style="font-style: inherit;"><em>Fabric: </em> </strong>1 yard of red cotton shirting purchased from Fabric.c*m.</div>
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<strong style="font-style: inherit;"><em>Pattern:</em></strong><em> </em>of my own invention.</div>
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<b style="font-style: italic;">Year: </b>Intended to be used with a 4th-quarter 18th century wardrobe.</div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Notions:</strong> </em>none, unless you count the needle and thread.</div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">How historically accurate is it?</strong> </em>Quite, as far as I know!</div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Hours to complete:</strong> </em>3. In my defense, a <i>Law and Order</i> marathon was on.</div>
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b>December 31 for kicks and giggles. Not yet in context, though.</div>
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<em><strong style="font-style: inherit;">Total cost:</strong></em><strong style="font-style: inherit;"> </strong><span style="font-style: inherit;">About $5.</span><strong style="font-style: inherit;"> </strong></div>
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Thread-Headhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15993301657471657837noreply@blogger.com10